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As far as I know many pro bodyshops regularly use tyvek "shoot suits". I don't know if that is for personal protection or is, as you have noted, a way to avoid lint and such stuff from regular work clothes getting into the paint. Maybe both. I have not gone to that extent. I just try to make sure that most skin is covered by something, such as wearing long sleeves like CN. I do my painting outside and for relatively small parts, I hang them from a skyhook (tractor bucket). To avoid swaying and twisting due to the airflow from the gun, I use one hand to steady them. From that standpoint my arms, hands and fingers are the most in danger of direct, heavy skin contact with overspray. Indeed, I occasionally "paint" a few fingers this way :o). I have found that the throwaway blue nitrile gloves seem good for this. These are like the medical gloves. I don't particularly care for the heavier, thicker "painting" gloves that are available. They don't permit the dexterity and feel that I like. I could be wrong here but I have never noticed any rash or any particular skin problem in using them. I did read somewhere that latex was not a satisfactory material for iso protection. If anyone reading this knows that nitrile is a bad choice here, please advise. The poster you mention indicated the skin was more important that lungs and recommended a cheap throw-away mask (not even a cartridge mask!). I have no expertise in the area but I would have to disagree with that. I have never seen anything from any credible source that would support such a statement. I agree with CN's priority listing: Respiratory system first, eyes second and skin last. I use a full facepiece that also provides eye protection similar to a full hood. It strikes me that just regular glasses or typical safety glasses would not be adequate for that purpose. For reference, here's a good read that's short and to the point. It seems to be consistent with the above priority ranking. You bring up a good point about intimidating terminology. The automotive paint world is far more complex than the hardware-store-enamel/mineral spirit world. Plus there are a number of different manufacturers each with a similar but slightly different array of products in different chemistries, having different safety issues and usage instructions that cover several different cost-competitive lines, most of which are not compatible with each other. Those of us who are comfortable and reasonably fluent with such things many times forget that others are not. I see where it can be intimidating. Hopefully it won't completely discourage newbies/lurkers from posting.
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Rod