TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Farmall & International Ferguson Ford & New Holland John Deere Massey Ferguson Massey Harris Minneapolis Moline Oliver & Cockshutt Kubota / Yanmar

TRACTOR MANUALS

Allis Chalmers	Case	Farmall IH	Ford 8N,9N,2N	Ford
Ferguson	John Deere	Massey Ferguson	Minn. Moline	Oliver

Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Another rust question

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register

Author

Paul from MN

06-10-2004 13:37:19

Report to Moderator

I just read the question from AWC about preventing rust with phosphoric acid and it brought up a question of my own. I don't have enough time to do the whole process at once. I plan on blasting some of the parts like the hood, seat, grill etc. Id like to get all of this done over a period of time before priming. In the mean time, would I have success at wrapping the parts in a blanket after blasting and store them in a dry room in my house until I am ready to continue?
Would this sufficiently ward off the rust? Thank you.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

CNKS

06-10-2004 18:55:06

Report to Moderator

Re: Another rust question in reply to Paul from MN, 06-10-2004 13:37:19

I'm not going to disagree with Rusty or Rod, but am going to give a third opinion. There is a product called Picklex 20 (will show up in a search), that can be applied to bare or slightly rusted metal, that will protect the metal for at least several months from additional rust. It has to be kept dry, but since I live in a dry climate, I have had no problems with it. I have not seen any visible rust 3-4 months after application. When you are ready to paint, just scuff it and paint. Or if you think you may have the starting of rust, reapply. The stuff is simple to apply and is not messy. I do like to remove most of the resulting white residue first, I do not know if it is necessary. Priming immediately as Rod suggests is ok too (actually it is the preferred method) but I like to do only one thing at a time and I am not organized enough to do messy stuff like sandblasting or other methods of rust removal, and clean stuff like painting in the same time frame. Also, I would much rather strip and sand sheet metal than sandblast, only my opinion.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Dozerboss

06-10-2004 22:59:33

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Another rust question in reply to CNKS, 06-10-2004 18:55:06

Best to epoxy prime it immediately if you can after etching. I don't usually use self etch primer unless its rust free metal. If you have to blast to remove rust, self etch won't remove any rust left. You can never get 100% rust off by blasting. If you can't prime it you can store it in a dry place as you mentioned after treating it with pickle 20 or oxi-solv which etches it. If you don't treat it, it will likely rerust just from the touch of your hand. I haven't used pickex but have read of its abilities. I have used oxisolv and it is widely used by the antique car restorers. It will remove rust, etch and leave a protective zinc phosphate coating on your bare metal which promotes paint adhesion and stops rerust. It is actually sold as a rust remover, won't harm rubber or gaskets, but it will discolor chrome plating. You won't find it at the hardware store but on the net. I have tried the tractor supply rust remover no good and no comparison. Another brand is Ospho- spelling maybe wrong- haven't tested this one yet.

If there is a paint stripper than prevents rerusting i would like to know what the brand is as well. The last time i used a water rinse off stripper flash rust started immediately.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Rod (NH)

06-10-2004 16:47:41

Report to Moderator

Re: Another rust question in reply to Paul from MN, 06-10-2004 13:37:19

Hi Paul,

A sandblasted surface leaves the steel in an extremely raw state. The humidity in the air and fingerprints can cause rust to form fairly quickly. Your best bet, IMO, would be to plan on priming the same day you do the blasting, preferably with a two-part epoxy primer. You can limit the priming to only that portion of the part(s) that you have sandblasted. You could use something like a Preval sprayer to avoid using and cleaning a regular spray gun for only a small area. The epoxy will protect it for a very long time indeed. You could then proceed with the final finishing at your convenience at any later time.

Rod

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Rusty Jones/ The Mower Ma

06-10-2004 16:44:55

Report to Moderator

Re: Another rust question in reply to Paul from MN, 06-10-2004 13:37:19

Say, now, be extra careful when sand blasting the hood! Sand blasting will heat up the sheet metal and cause warping of the metal! You may not think so, but it is true. Can't you just grind out the rusty spots and either remove the paint with paint remover, or sand what is left of the finish with sand paper! I use a product called: "Aircraft Stripper". You apply it, wait until the old paint is all wrinkled, scrape it off with a putty knife, wash the metal off with cold water, and let it dry in the sun! That brand of stripper has a chemical in it that keeps the metal from rusting from the water bath. But, it must be primed to protect from excess humidity! As for the other question--yes, you could do that, but it is best to apply a several coats of primer after the hood and other parts dry after the phosporus treatment. You can buy a quart of "Metal Prep", which is the easy way to do the phosporus treatment. This is available at autobody supply stores. Best not to let the bare metal parts set anywhere! Even covered! Rusty Jones

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

CNKS

06-10-2004 18:59:27

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Another rust question in reply to Rusty Jones/ The Mower Ma, 06-10-2004 16:44:55

Does your "Aircraft Stripper" have a trade name?--I didn't know about it's rust inhibiting properties -- I might want to try some!

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Dozerboss

06-11-2004 21:28:14

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Another rust question in reply to CNKS, 06-10-2004 18:59:27

I have seen aircraft stripper @ Advance auto parts--a chain store. They have a website. Don't know if there in KS, or if its the same product. About 45 mile trip for me so i can't look til i need to go to the big city. I have heard other strippers tout air craft grade.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

CNKS

06-12-2004 18:51:40

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Re: Another rust question in reply to Dozerboss, 06-11-2004 21:28:14

There's one about 2 miles from me, will look next time I go there -- they bought out Western Auto, I liked Western Auto better.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Rusty Jones

06-11-2004 12:38:16

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Another rust question in reply to CNKS, 06-10-2004 18:59:27

Hey, CNKS! That stripper has a picture of an airplane on it, and that's the only name i ever saw on it! I had a quart of it down in the garage, but it had "swelled" up, and fearing it would crack and leak, i pitched it! So i can't go look. I've never heard of some things you mentioned, but i'll check at the auto paint store for them! And, i don't know how your weather is, but we've had an awful lot of rain here! I have stuff to do outside, but the yard is a swamp! And, the cellar looks like the Okefenokee! I half expect to see snakes and gators crawling about down there! My grass is getting longer every day, now 4 inches high or more, too soaked to run the machine over it! Hoping for sunshine! Rusty Jones

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

CNKS

06-11-2004 17:39:08

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Re: Another rust question in reply to Rusty Jones, 06-11-2004 12:38:16

Thanks -- It's so dry here the grasshoppers are going door to door asking for water.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Gene B

06-10-2004 19:29:27

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Another rust question in reply to CNKS, 06-10-2004 18:59:27

After bare metal prep of these parts you could spray can them with NAPA 7220 Self Etching Primer. Let them dry a day or two then seal them up in plastic bags and they should be fine until your ready to wetsand and paint.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

[Options] [Printer Friendly] [Posting Help] [Return to Forum] [Log in to Reply]

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home | Forums

Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy