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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Back to PPG again

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john in la

07-03-2004 10:10:03




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Well went to two PPG and a Dupont store armed with info from you guys to try and narrow down my choices for painting my ford 861 and decide what is best for me in my situation.

My limitations.....
have not air sprayed since 1978
painting out side w/suction air gun w/filter and pressure regulator
No sand blaster but I do have a pressure washer; jitter bug sander; angle grinder; and acl. torch
no fresh air system so no hardener
tractor was painted by other owner with out sanding so paint is flaking off.
Botched welding of sheet metal cracks by other owner

My needs..... ..
Good weather protection for a stored out side tractor.
paint must not chip; peel; flake or fall off. (notice I did not say fade)
must be as good as original factory paint job
Repair bad welds and cracks in sheet metal

My choices and options as I see them.
No matter what I will need a... charcoal breathing filter; Lye and oven cleaner to strip paint to metal; sand paper; and metal grinder to repair sheet metal welding;

1)$60.00 paint with spray bombs. 12 cans @ $5.00. This will not last so it is out.

2)$102.00 paint with rust-oleum or tractor paint. 2 gals paint (1 red 1 gray); 1 gal primer; 1 gal reducer; 1 gal oil and grease cleaner. This does not allow the use of a good epoxy primer which you guys suggest unless I take a chance and mix brands per layer.

3)$157.00 PPG Commercial grade paint w/o hardener. Uses 2 part epoxy primer EPX900/901; 1 gal red 1 gal gray ALK200 no reducer needed; 1 gal gun cleaner; 1 gal Omni 190 cleaner (same as PPG DX330) This allows use of epoxy primer can be sprayed w/o hardener but have to question use of Omni 181 surfacer with this product. It will probably fade but should be as good as factory job. (the Dupont quote for this product was $190.00)

4)$401.00 OMNI MAE paint job w/o hardener. 1 gal red 1 gal gray; reducer; epoxy primer MP170; 1 quart 181 surfacer; 1 gal gun cleaner; 1 gal 190 cleaner. Better paint; allows use of 181 surfacer; will not fade as bad.

5)$600.00++++ same as 4 but with hardener and requires me to do all prep work and have some one else shoot it w/ hardener. Much better and will shine but out of my league.

So now I feel I have done my home work faced my limitations head on and I am ready to go. I pick #3 because of the use of the epoxy primer. This allows me to strip the paint to bare metal with lye and oven cleaner. Pressure wash; sand and scotch bright down to good metal. Repair old welds; metal cracks and dents in sheet metal with welds; bondo or fiber glass. Prime every surface with a 2 part epoxy primer for lasting protection and then top coat with a good commercial grade PPG paint. It may fade and have some minor imperfections because I can not use the 181 surfacer but this is a working tractor and weather protection is the #1 main goal. My only concern is if 1 gal of red will do the tractor. If I run a little short I will need another gallon as quarts are not available. I feel the added cost ($243.00) to use the OMNI MAE paint is not needed in my case especially since I can not use hardener and it will fade some any way.

THANKS VERY MUCH FOR YOUR TIME GUYS..... ....
I WILL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT TURNS OUT..... .
ANY COMMENTS BEFORE I START..... ...

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Rod (NH)

07-03-2004 21:15:18




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 Re: Back to PPG again in reply to john in la, 07-03-2004 10:10:03  
John,

Sounds like you got it pretty well figured out, although as CNKS says, you may be high on the quantities. While the general recommendation is to not mix and match products between different manufacturers, the two part epoxy primer is one exception, IMO. You should be able to put about anything from anybody on top of it. Or under it for that matter. I really think you could use the MP170/175 (or even the EPX900/901) in your option number 2.

The biggest risk in mixing and matching is using additives from one manufacturer in paint from another. The risk is less in using similar products by different manufacturers on different layers. I have used PPG epoxy under DuPont color quite a bit in the past. While I am quite confident on the universal nature of the two-part epoxy, I am less so on the 181 surfacer. I have used a similar lacquer type surfacer from DuPont (131S) under PPG enamel topcoats with no problem. I would guess the 181 would work equally well under any enamel, but since I have never tried it I don't know for sure.

I am a little surprised by your price quote for the OMNI materials. It sounds quite high to me. It almost looks like you were quoted full list price. Around here nobody pays full list. Yesterday I bought a quart of OMNI MBC bright red (repair on my wife's car) for $21.41. The full list was $36.40/qt. The $21.41 is available to anyone off the street, at least here. You don't even have to ask for it. I don't get any kind of volume or trade discount. A two year old price for the MP170 was $39.09/gal ($48.86 list).

Surface prep is the most important part for any lasting job. About any type of enamel from any reputable manufacturer will be as good as the original factory finish on any vintage tractor. The surfacer is for filling sandscratches and would only be used on the sheet metal. If you want to obtain a mirror finish typical of automobiles, you will need to use one unless you have an absolutely perfect base. Otherwise, it's optional. It doesn't add a thing to the protection of the metal or longevity of the paint.

third party image Rod

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john in la

07-04-2004 05:08:55




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 Re: Re: Back to PPG again in reply to Rod (NH), 07-03-2004 21:15:18  
And THANK YOU ROD. Like I told CNKS you guys have been spending a lot of time with me and I appreciate it.

Referee to CNKS post and you will see the PPG commercial price is set in stone as it only comes in gals.

Going by your post I conclude I need only decide my top coat options. Way I see it now is I need..... ..
1 gal 190 cleaner. Got to have it for any job to last. $15.42
2 part epoxy primer. Should use it as it will protect metal. EPX900/901 $54.74
1 qt 181. The PPG salesman said it would work under any of my enamel paints and you seem to think (not know) the same way. This will allow me to get a good smooth finish on my sheet metal.$12.00
So now we are at $82.00.
This should give me a very good solid base to work off of. Every one I have talked to seems to agree with this so far but this is where we take different paths..... ..

Salesman is pushing commercial line to try and make sale and keep me from buying tractor paint. Has even told me that this line will shine as good as OMNI but I find that hard to believe.

From past post on this board they seem to like OMNI and would like to see me use that. I can even under stand that as they feel I would be much happier with the final out come.

Personally I want the best job I can justify the cost of per my needs and limitations. I have no set top price but rather try to justify moving from one grade to the other by the difference in price. I would really like to justify and stay in PPG line because then I get spec sheet to follow for mixing and spray/recoat times plus help from this board.

After some more research and pondering last night I have decided.....

Rustoleum is out. $8 qt $25 gal Can not get it mixed in my color. Only way is to try and buy qts of different colors and mix myself.

Cheap enamel is iffy.$25 gal (Glidden; Val spar; best paint; ect..) got to question quality.

Tractor paint in ready mixed colors from WALT'S TRACTOR seems ok but is $12-$15 a qt plus shipping and no spec sheets or advise if needed and that means a lot to me as a beginner. Then here we go mixing one paint with another brand reducer and we are back right where we started.

I guess what I really need to know now is how much paint of the red and gray do you think I will need????? With this info I could try to cut my quantity of OMNI and get the price more in line with the $150.00 I am at now.

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Rod (NH)

07-04-2004 20:48:08




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 Re: Re: Re: Back to PPG again in reply to john in la, 07-04-2004 05:08:55  
John,

I am not a good one to give you an idea on the quantity. I always go on the heavy side to the extreme because of my work flow. I use a 2-part product for everything. They all have a pot life and any unused quantity mixed has to be thrown away after one to 8 hours, depending on product. My work flow is slooooow. I do everything piecemeal at different times. After 2 years I still have the fenders and most of the cast to do on my AC-B :o). That means that I have an abnormally high amount of waste since I always mix up a bit more than I think I need so as not to run short on any step. Sometimes I overestimate the amount needed and have quite a bit left over that has to be thrown away. I also use non-hvlp equipment for the most part which (admittedly) tends to cause more waste. Since you are not using hardeners in your surfacer and topcoat, you will not have the pot life issue as a problem to deal with. You can save any mixed but unused material in a tightly covered container for use at a later time if desired. You will need to consider this matter on the epoxy primer however. That's not so critical since you can stop and go buy more if you need to. You may not have that luxury with the topcoat, even with no hardener. The topcoat should go on in a continuous series of steps with only short flash times between the first and last coats. If you are doing things piecemeal at different times (days), you can keep track of usage as you go and buy more as needed, continuously estimating ahead based on past usage. If you are trying to do much, if not all of it in one day, then the situation changes. If you don't have enough material on hand to complete all coats for that work session, you'll kick yourself later. Having to buy full gallons at a time is not particularly effective for a small user on a one-shot deal with an unclear total end use quantity. Being able to buy material in quarts, even if more expensive on that basis, I think is a better way to proceed. I pretty much agree with CNKS except if you must plan and buy all your materials at once I would be a little nervous with the 2 qts of each color. You might make it and you might not. A full gallon (of each) would be too much but 2 qts is cutting it a little close IMO. You would be OK with his procedures and you probably would not be OK with mine. I'll try and refine some numbers so bear with me.

When you compare quantities of materials or costs, be sure to do it on an "after mixing" or RTS (ready-to-spray) basis. Also try to estimate the number of coats you will need. You can usually go by the tech sheets on this. Here's an example:

The OMNI MP170/175 epoxy primer is mixed 2:1. That means that 2 parts (by volume) of MP170 primer is mixed with 1 part (by volume) of MP175 catalyst. Therefore 1 gallon of MP170 results in 6 qts of RTS material. The tech sheet calls for 1 coat (I usually use 2 but I don't think it is really necessary). Six qts at 1 coat goes a long way; 845 square feet if no waste per the tech sheet (563 sf/gal rts at 1 mil). Whoever is trying to sell you a gal of catalyst to go with a gal of MP170 either doesn't know the product he is selling, doesn't care or is trying to pump up the price in favor of another product. I noticed that the EPX900/901 is mixed 1:1 which would yield a full 2 gal of RTS material. Sounds like more doesn't it (8 qts vs 6 qts)? But it's not. It's actually less! It is not clear on the tech sheet but it appears that 1 coat is also the recommended build for the EPX product. The stated coverage is actually significantly less than the MP170 for the same amount of material (no loss = 396 sf/gal rts at 1 mil or ~800sf for 2 gal rts). The only reason I can think of for this is that the EPX has significantly more volatile material in it than the MP. Even assuming an average total efficiency of 25% this is still 200 sf for either the EPX or the MP, likely more than you would use on a typical tractor. I don't know about the MP170 itself but do know the 175 catalyst is available in qts since that is the way I have bought it. A similar exercise can be conducted with the topcoat. OMNI MAE is reduced 4:1 with the appropriate MR reducer so 2 qts of MAE winds up to be 2-1/2 qts of RTS material. You should plan on 3 coats for this per the tech sheet. The coverage for RTS MAE is stated as about 500 sf per gal per coat (1 mil). Therefore, with no loss, 2-1/2 qts RTS at 1 coat should cover 312 sf (2.5x500/4). Three coats would cover 100 sf w/o loss. Assuming an average of 30% transfer efficiency for non-hvlp and another 5% for misc loss (25% total efficiency), that means 2 qts of MAE color (2-1/2 qts RTS) would cover about 25 square feet with three coats. You may do better than that but I wouldn't bet on it. You'll have to decide if 25 sf is enough for each of the colors and plan accordingly. Don't forget that a full sized non-hvlp gun used on individual small parts will result in terrible transfer efficiency.

To put this in some perspective, I have to date used between 2-1/2 and 3 qts of MTK color out of a 1 gal can on my AC-B. The mix ratio is more favorable than the MAE (4:2 rather than 4:1). I am using 3 coats. The tractor is not half done and the B is a small tractor. The 1 gal I started with will never finish it. That's poor, I know, but is the result of the materials and equipment I use and the nature of my work flow. Most will do better than that; perhaps a lot better than that. Just goes to show you that estimating quantities for others with many variables involved can be fraught with problems, which is why I try to avoid it :o).

The quantity of surfacer required can be highly variable depending on how smooth the surface is to begin with. Don't expect too much from it. It is nothing but a little more heavily bodied material that is formulated for easy sanding. It is intended for filling fairly minor sandscratches only. Do not try to use it for any other purpose. The heavier the sandscratches, the more material is going to be needed. It will take more to fill 80 grit scratches than to fill 180 or 220 grit scratches. I have used as many as six coats of a surfacer before. Remember that most of it will be sanded off prior to topcoating. The tech sheet for the 181 says 2-4 coats over a 180 grit prep. One thing about the 181 is that it is reduced 1:1 with the same reducer (MR) that is used in the MAE topcoat, thereby eliminating having to buy different reducers. One thing I ran across in buying the 181 once quite a while back is that the supplier would not sell me the MR reducer at the same time I bought the 181...due to environmental VOC emissions rules in my area. He would only sell me the MS250 which, I think, is nothing more than acetone (an exempt solvent). The tech sheet still calls for and permits use of MR and I would have no problem using it, although it might be illegal to do so in my area.

Not sure this all helps you any but is provided as some food for thought. I suspect your eyes may be glassing over but I have attempted to put some numbers to your unique situation. Is the OMNI system worth 2-1/2 times the cost of the Commercial system? Perhaps not. It is worth more. How much more is the subject of some debate. I am just not convinced the prices/quantities given represent a true apples-to-apples comparison. I have no problem with the 190 cleaner. I have never used it but it is covered in the OMNI tech sheets and I am confident it will work fine instead of the DX330. I use the DX330 simply because I bought 2 gal of it years ago. I will never have to buy any more cleaner. A gal of the 190 will probably last you for years to come. You don't need much of it for any single job. Too bad they don't sell it in pints.

third party image Rod

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CNKS

07-05-2004 18:31:33




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Back to PPG again in reply to Rod (NH), 07-04-2004 20:48:08  
I guess I said 2 quarts of each because of the way I paint. I paint the chassis first, then the sheet metal, and if I run out it will be on the small parts I paint separately. Since I don't have room to spread them all out and paint all at once, I do a few at a time. Then if I do run low on paint, I don't have a whole bunch of stuff lined up with only one coat on them. I am careful not to run out on a hood or something, because of the need for the continuous flow, as you said. On a Ford, I bet 2 quarts, with maybe a pint in reserve, will cover one of the colors, but pints are expensive compared to quarts, and particularly gallons.

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CNKS

07-03-2004 18:03:19




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 Re: Back to PPG again in reply to john in la, 07-03-2004 10:10:03  
You said Ford gray and red? Ford 8N? One gallon TOTAL red and gray should do that tractor. Quarts cost more per unit than gallons, but it should still cut your MAE price considerably, and is much better paint. If you run out, it also comes in pints. I couldn't find the 190 cleaner, what is the reason for using it instead of 330? You will not need anywhere near a gallon of surfacer, more like a quart, but I don't know if it comes in smaller quantities.

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john in la

07-04-2004 02:41:04




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 Re: Re: Back to PPG again in reply to CNKS, 07-03-2004 18:03:19  
Thanks CNKS.
I know you guys are spending a lot of time with me so Thanks!!!!! !!!!
1) The OMNI 190 ($15.42 gal) and PPG 330 ($24.00 gal) is the same thing. You all recommended the 330 but I was told that was PPG top of the line. The cleaner degreaser in OMNI line is 190.

2)The PPG commercial quote in #3 is set in stone as it only comes in gallons.
1 gal red..... ..... ..... .....$53.46
1 gal gray..... ..... ..... ....$33.87
1 gal primer and 1 gal catalst..$54.74
1 gal 190 cleaner degreaser.....$15.42 Total..... ..... ..... ..... ..$157.49

3) Yes I could do some refiguring on the OMNI line if I knew how much I would need. The quote I got was a total of all things needed and when I heard the price I did not ask for a break down. It includes....
2 gal primer and catalyst MP170 (1 gal each)
1 gal red
1 gal gray
reducer for this paint
1 gal 190 cleaner
1 qt of 181 and reducer

4)This is a 801 Ford I am painting. Basically same thing as a 8N but the center of hood is red instead of gray. So what should I figure on getting.
1 gal 190 cleaner degreaser..... $15.42
primer and catalyst 170 (I think this only comes in gals. Based on #3 quote of the EPX900-901 this should run about $55.00)
1 qt of 181..... ..... ..... ..$12.00
Total so far..... ..... ....$82.42
Now I need gray for hood; 4 rims and fenders. Red for all cast and center of hood. Do you think 2qts red and 1 qt gray will cover this with say 2 coats????? ????? ????? ?????

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CNKS

07-04-2004 17:10:03




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 Re: Re: Re: Back to PPG again in reply to john in la, 07-04-2004 02:41:04  
I can't tell you to the ounce, probably not to the pint or even quart how much paint you need. But, the Farmall C I painted a couple of years ago took right at a gallon for three coats, all red except for the rims. That includes a lot of wasted paint (overspray) painting the small items separately. Different tractor, but about the same area as your Ford. My Super H took a little over a gallon. You might cover with 2 coats, if you are good at it, but after you are done you will probably find some areas that are thin. I use three coats, and still need to touch up some areas that are hard to get to. Buy a gallon of 170, if that is as small a quantity you can get, a couple quarts of 181, and two quarts each of MAE red and gray. It will cost you more than the commercial stuff, but is better paint. Doesn't get much simpler than that.

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