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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Rustoleum primer topcoat

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Russ in SoCal

07-10-2004 14:46:04




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What started as "change a headgasket and replace the oil pan seal" became a PROJECT. Took the tin to be professionally done. Lousy color match but I'll live with it for now. Everything else was either sand blasted, wire wheeled or cleaned with electrolysis, then pressure washed. Used rustoleum gray primer cause I had some, then topcoated with rustoleum cause I liked the color. Found it's NOT durable against bumps and scrapes. Is there something I can put over this, clear or sorta color match to improve hardness?
Working tractor here, but after nearly every spare moment for a month, I want a good job.
With my thanks, Russ
P.S. Checked archives. All I found out was that rustoleum is a "bottom shelf" way to go. : ^ (

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steve

07-10-2004 20:22:32




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 Re: Rustoleum primer topcoat in reply to Russ in SoCal, 07-10-2004 14:46:04  
the paint just needs to harden. set the tracrot out in the sun shine for 30 days and let it bake in the sun. that should "dry" it out. the good thing about automotive paint is the handener that makes them "dry" faster. your rustoleum will never have the fade resistance and shine of the automotive paint, but it will eventually dry.



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CNKS

07-10-2004 19:27:21




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 Re: Rustoleum primer topcoat in reply to Russ in SoCal, 07-10-2004 14:46:04  
Your P.S. answered your question -- I don't know about the clear. I have heard of people doing it over paint as an afterthought, but I have not tried it. Most paint is not durable against bumps and scrapes anyway. The only way you can keep it decent is to pretend it's a car. The main advantage of the better paints is that they don't fade as fast as the cheap ones.



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Russ in SoCal

07-11-2004 10:15:51




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 Re: Re: Rustoleum primer topcoat in reply to CNKS, 07-10-2004 19:27:21  
Steve and CNKS,
Thank-you for the responses. I'm out here in the Mojave desert so thirty days shouldn't take more than a couple weeks. I'm following the thread with John la and picking up a lot of knowledge I didn't even know was there for the looking. The budget is almost nickel and dimed to death, but I'm saving some of the posts. When I get tired of the greenish gray fenders and hood, Ill be a lot less lost on which way I SHOULD proceed.
Thanks again,
Russ

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john in la

07-12-2004 17:55:01




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 Re: Re: Re: Rustoleum primer topcoat in reply to Russ in SoCal, 07-11-2004 10:15:51  
Glad to see some one else is also learning from my post.
While I know little to nothing about painting let me make a comment.
While it seems that I may be nickel and diming it to death I can tell you why. I need to prove TO ME (not any one else) two statements made on this board.
1) Any paint job is only as good as your surface prep.
2) You should use Acrylic Enamel paint such as OMNI MAE. It will cost more (sometimes interpreted as a lot more) But you will be much happier.
I believe the first statement to be 110% true. If you want your paint job to last you need to do your surface prep.
The second statement is a different story. While I would not say it is false I took it as miss leading after I checked out the facts. I also think my nickel and diming has also proved this at least to me. It is NOT the fact that you use Rustoleum or Tractor paint or PPG MAE that makes the difference. Or at least not a big difference. It is the surface prep that drives up the cost. The cost of the Epoxy Primer adds over $50.00 to the job but insures that the topcoat will stick no matter what paint you use. Its the stripping of all loose material and sanding every nook and cranny that makes you want to spend the extra money to do it right the first time.
So then I personally feel their is two ways of painting a tractor.
1) Do it the cheep way. No sanding or primer. Just spray the paint over what you have. If you want to do this you just as soon use the $8.00 a qt Rustoleum. About $60.00
2) The hard way. Strip and sand to good solid surface. Prime with a good Epoxy Primer and then topcoat. If you take this route you just as soon use a good surfacer to remove sand scratches and use a good Acrylic Enamel paint. It is only going to cost you $20.00 to $30.00 more. This amount is chicken feed with all the prep work you have in it.

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Cliff Neubauer

07-16-2004 15:32:33




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Rustoleum primer topcoat in reply to john in la, 07-12-2004 17:55:01  
You are exactly right that even if you do the work yourself labor is the most expensive part of a paint job. I am currently painting our IH 5488, I am using PPG Omni MTK single stage urethane on the chassis and PPG DBC base coat with Autobody Master 8900v clear coat. I am going to have close to $800 worth of paint on it when I am done (didn't start out that expensive but you know how projects go) but I am on my third week working on it and I still have at least three full days to go before it is done. Even with that much invested in paint the labor is where the biggest expense is and where the quality jobs stand out from the rest. I'll post some pictures of this tractor when I get it done but I've been to alot of tractor shows and only seen a hand full of tractors that look as good as this one is going to.

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