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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Farmall Super MTA Restoration

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Curtis Tietz

07-21-2004 15:34:42




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Started on a complete restoration of my dads Super MTA tractor. It was past due for some T.L.C. I will be doing cleaning,body work and painting myself. I will be using PPG Omni-AE paint with hardner and MP 170 epoxy substrate after washing down bare metal with DX-330 Acryla-clean. I got most of my painting and body work questions answered by my paint supplier,but not all of them. These are the questions they could not answer for me. 1- What is the proper temp. to shoot MP 170 epoxy primer? 2-Should reducer be added to the MP 170 to ensure better flow out since no surfacer will be used on sheetmetal? 3- Can I wash Bondo body filler with the DX-330 Acryla-Clean while washing bare metal? 4-How soon after laying down MP 170 epoxy primer can you start top-coating? My paint supplier suggested at least 12 hours to release catalyst. I would greatly appreciate any and all assistance. THANK YOU

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Mike Goulden

08-19-2004 05:10:52




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 Re: Farmall Super MTA Restoration in reply to Curtis Tietz, 07-21-2004 15:34:42  
I am looking for a grill for a Farmall MTA (Gas). Can you help? Thanks.



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Cliff Neubauer

07-22-2004 06:45:15




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 Re: Farmall Super MTA Restoration in reply to Curtis Tietz, 07-21-2004 15:34:42  
Rod and CNKS have given you some very good information here but I want to second CNKS's suggestion that you use 182 primer surfacer over the MP-170 on the sheet metal. A quart of the 182 will only cost around $20 and it will work much better for sanding the sheetmetal smooth. It is possible to sand the MP-170 but it needs about a week to to set up enough that it won't plug up the sand paper and it does not go on as thick as the primer/surfacer. I generally reduce the MP-170 a little bit since I don't have a primer gun with a big tip like I need. I will topcoat over the MP-170 as soon as I get my primer gun cleaned out and get the paint mixed so maybe 10 minutes. As long as the epoxy is dry to the touch you shouldn't have any problems topcoating it.

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CNKS

07-21-2004 19:30:12




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 Re: Farmall Super MTA Restoration in reply to Curtis Tietz, 07-21-2004 15:34:42  
With respect to the reducer for the 170, it is not recommended, but I have used 5% reducer to make it flow out a little better. Actually, I had better results reducing my tip size from 1.8 to 1.5 (HVLP). I would strongly recommend using MP 181 or 182 surfacer on the sheet metal, and sanding between coats, it will look much better one the topcoat is applied. Remember, you have to have a supplied air system for the hardeners in the 182 and topcoat.

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Rod (NH)

07-21-2004 18:08:41




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 Re: Farmall Super MTA Restoration in reply to Curtis Tietz, 07-21-2004 15:34:42  
Hi Curtis,

It never ceases to amaze me how ignorant some paint suppliers are of the products they sell. The MP170 epoxy primer is normally dry-to-topcoat or surface in about 30 minutes (at 70 deg F). See the technical data sheet for it. I have never heard of a suggested waiting time of 12 hours minimum. In fact, after 72 hours the epoxy is so hard that scuffing and reapplying the epoxy should be done to obtain the best adhesion of topcoats. You want to take advantage of a chemical bond between the epoxy and the topcoat so stay anywhere within the time window of 30 min to 72 hrs. It will not do any harm to wait the 12 hours but it is not necessary. Again, see the tech sheet. Other epoxies are different so you can't generalize on these time periods

You should be able to shoot epoxy from 60 Deg F up into the 90's. At the high end of temps you might want to consider the optional reduction with up to 10% acetone to the RTS (ready to spray) mix as indicated in the tech sheet. I have never done that, having not found it to be necessary. I haven't used it above about 85 deg however. I tend to spray on the wet side so I haven't noticed a problem with decent flowout. Try a test panel. You should do that anyway if you haven't used the products before.

I have used the DX330 over plastic filler w/o a problem. Make sure you wipe the surface dry as specified in the directions. Plastic filler is porous so try to avoid any heavy application of the 330 since it is not the fastest evaporating cleaner. After wiping dry, you can pretty much tell by the appearance of the surface if additional time needs to be allowed for any further evaporation to occur. I would err on the side of allowing a liberal time for this to happen in the area of the filler.

Despite what you may be advised by anyone, the best recommendations come directly from the product manufacturer and not the product salesman. That's why the data sheets are so important to have available. Get the one for MAE w/hard here.

third party image Rod

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