Hi Paul, I have found a spot gun to be extremely versatile for tractor painting. They originally came about to do the door jams on automobiles, hence the other name - "jam gun". I have two spot guns. One is an older non-hvlp gun with a 6 oz cup and 3-4 inch maximum fan pattern. The other is a newer hvlp gun with a 4 oz cup and a stated maximum 6 inch fan pattern. I think the 6 inch is a little overstated and that a 4-5 inch pattern for that one is more realistic. To date, I have done all my tractor parts individually and it is not practical to fire up my full size gun for a bunch of relatively small pieces. I have done all the sheetmetal work on my AC-B with just the hvlp spot gun. Most tractors do not have large broad areas like an auto hood or roof and a spot gun can be used to advantage. I believe that if you can cover an item with a single coat from a single filling of the cup, a spot gun can be used...especially if there are no large flat areas. The fan pattern on most guns can be adjusted down from the maximum with the pattern adjusting screw. The fluid control may also have to adjusted to suit the smaller pattern. I don't do that with mine because I simply prefer painting all the time with a full pattern. If the parts can be accommodated with a spot gun I will use that. If not, then I will use the full sized one. For bolts and nuts, I simple set up a bunch of 'em on a wooden backboard and do 'em all at once with the spot gun at full pattern. Any touch-up of nuts and bolt heads after assembly is done with an artists brush. If you have areas where a 1" or 2" pattern could be used, a spot gun might fill the bill for you. That method will work with the MTK or any hardened paint but to go back and add paint to a non-hardened enamel later on could result in lifting and ruining of the paint, depending on the actual paint and solvents used. I have never used an air brush but from my reading about them, they should spray the MTK just fine. I can't help with your turbine gun as I know nothing about them. Rod
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