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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Primer and paint

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GPWT

08-12-2004 10:44:48




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I am anticipating starting on the next tractor restoration soon, it will be an early JD without much sheet metal, almost all cast. I plan on a complete disassembly, sand blast everything, prime and paint individually, etc. One objective is to keep the natural cast surface, I don't want to fill in the grain and make it look smooth.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of the 2 part epoxy primers? Can these be applied OK with HVLP? How long to they have to set before they can be top coated? What brands do you recommend? I would like the most durable top coat that I can get, but the ISO problem is scary- what top coat is more durable than the JD synthetic enamel but doesn't use ISO's? How difficult will it be to get a good color match for the JD green? I am leery of the BC/CC systems since I am not an expert painter, can a non-professional do a good job with BC/CC? If the ISO's are a necessary evil, what fresh air supply systems do you recommend? I am in Ohio, so I need paint that tolerates some humidity during application since it's almost never dry here.
Thank you in advance, I appreciate any sincere suggestions!

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CNKS

08-13-2004 18:13:41




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 Re: Primer and paint in reply to GPWT, 08-12-2004 10:44:48  
If most of the tractor is cast, PPG Omni MAE (acrylic enamel) without hardener is fine. Use Omni MP170 epoxy primer under it, the catalyst does not contain iso's. If you do use a surfacer on the parts that are not cast, use Omni MP 181, it is single stage, and does not use hardener. 170 can be topcoated in 30 minutes or less, don't have the 181 spec sheet handy, but it is about the same. If you want to use hardener, the Hobby Air supplied air system costs $4-$500. Since you have very little sheet metal, hardener in terms of gloss is not necessary, because it won't shine like a flat surface, anyway. MAE may not have the durabilty of hardened paint, but it should be ok.

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yoda

08-13-2004 07:49:22




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 Re: Primer and paint in reply to GPWT, 08-12-2004 10:44:48  
Im using a Nason system for a currant resto project. I sand blasted and used an etching primer for the bare metal. I was going to use an epoxy primer but opted for the Urathane primer instead. Yes it full of ISO's and the Urathane paint is as well BUT with an HVLP gun it goes on nice and is a very good product. I contacted 3M about what they recomend for a resporator. The 6000 series mask with 6001 filters and optional prefilters work great. I also use a Tyveck suit,gloves and chemical goggles when I spray. Alot of guys like the JD brand of paint but they add hardener to it so the ISO problem still remains. Just get some good protective gear and youll be fine.

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Dozerboss

08-13-2004 22:16:23




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 Re: Primer and paint in reply to yoda, 08-13-2004 07:49:22  
You need a fresh air supplied system to be protectioned from ISO's. There are death's all the time from Iso exposure. I have noticed i am more sensitive to them now than before. I used to mix a few oz to fix chips and not worry about it too, since i wasn't spraying. Now i get headaches and irriated eyes and skin if i go near an open cup. I consider that a warning, like pain. Some people aren't so lucky, they just get terminally sick or die in their sleep after a day of spraying.

The epoxy primer would have water proofed the metal under your paint job. Thats why i consider it the best protection you can buy. Since you blasted, you didn't need an etch primer for adhesion. If you used epoxy than a urethane over it i think you would have better corrosion protection than the etch primer urethane combination. If you leave your project outside, keep it waxed to seal the pores of your paint. Thats the best you can do without an epoxy undercoat.

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CNKS

08-13-2004 17:57:57




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 Re: Primer and paint in reply to yoda, 08-13-2004 07:49:22  
All that protection that you wear gives you is a false sense of security -- with a charcoal filter mask, you are still breathing iso's. Don't care what 3M says, they are doing you a disservice.



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