Two component part paint

The MTK is a single stage two component urethane paint. The "two component" means that a hardener must be added to the basic paint for the film to dry and cure properly. There are actually three different components in the field mix (paint/hardener/reducer) but the reducer is not commonly referred to as a third part. The single stage means that a separate clear coat is not required for good gloss. Are you using the early persian orange - the pumpkin shade, PPG 60080? That's what I have used in MTK. It works nicely and is quite cost effective for good urethane performance.

Rod

I have never used the OMNI MX190 cleaner. I have always used PPG's DX330 cleaner but I would expect the 190 to be about the same and used in about the same way. In other words, as you say, wipe on, keep wet and then wipe dry with a clean cloth. As far as I know all cleaners are used this way. Here's the tech sheet for the DX series of cleaners from PPG's main line. I see that PPG apparently does not have a tech sheet for the OMNI MX190. I never moved to the 190 when I started using the OMNI line of paint since I had a couple of gallons of the DX330 left over from years past. That will last me well into the future. Here's a good general write-up on surface cleaner usage.

I am curious as to how the 190 instructions are different. Could you post what the can label says?

Being a novice in the art of spray painting; and always having someone else paint my tractors, with this being my last tractor(at age 70 I am a bit older). The Acrylic Urethane paint has me a bit uneasy. I am planning on painting this tractor in an area that has 3 open sides to the outside. My twin cartridge respiratory mask states good for all spray paint except Urethane. So, I have been looking at MAE Acrylic Enamel with Harener. I would appreciate your thoughts on this type of paint knowing your feelings on anything except a fresh air system. Thanks, Ray

Since my above post, I have read all of your comments in the Search This Site dealing with my question to you. I have found out your feelings and experience about the question I proposed to you.You don't have to rehash it again. Now, I have the following question. Since the MAE Acrylic Enamel without Hardener may be the best for me to use health wise since I will only be wearing a mask. Will I get an attrative finish that is a good deep shine knowing the draw backs such as you listed in one of your posts? Do I have to clearcoat,or buff, or anything besides just paint?

CNKS is correct. Urethanes actually require hardener additives where enamels use them as an optional additive. The dangerous isocyanates are in the hardeners so the problem still exists if a hardener is used in an enamel. You can use the MAE acrylic enamel without the hardener. You should not attempt any clearcoat. For one thing, the vast majority of clearcoats are urethanes that require a hardener and therefore contain the hazardous isocyanates. For another, attempting to clearcoat an enamel used without hardener may result in wrinkling and lifting of the paint film. You do not need to do anything except paint. "Good deep shine" is pretty subjective though. As CNKS says, a lot depends on the application and the condition of the substrate. It is possible to get a good shine w/o hardener. It is also possible to get a terrible shine using hardener. To be honest, a novice should not expect to obtain a finish comparable to an OEM or an experienced painter - no matter the materials used. I suggest you buy a quart of the MAE and try it out on something before deciding to proceed on the tractor. See if it meets your expectations.