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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Dent work

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Chris Willy

12-03-2004 15:17:41




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Hey guys, had a question for ya. I just got done painting a B john deere and it had some small dents here and there on it so i used bondo and filled them and sanded them down with a 100 grit paper then filled them again and repeated this until the dents were filled to my satisfaction, I then took a 180 grit paper and sanded them over again and then a 240 grit paper i believe and then primed the tractor and followed with a coat of green base coat. After the paint had all dried i noticed that i could still faintly see where i had put the bondo, the finish is hard to describe but its just not quite the same as the rest of the hoods where there was no bondo used. Any ideas what i did wrong? or didn"t do right? thanks alot guys.

Chris

sorry for the poor use of capitalization and such, in a hurry

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rustyj14

12-05-2004 12:13:11




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 Re: Dent work in reply to Chris Willy, 12-03-2004 15:17:41  
I think you should have put more primer coats on the bondo areas, letting it flash between coats! Then, after the primer is dried well, you should spray on a light guide coat (available in spray cans at the auto paint store.) sand those bondo spots and the whole primed area with wet sand paper and water, using a flat rubber sanding block in the paper! This way, the holes and low spots will show up as specks in the area. If you use enough primer, you won"t sand thru all of it, just the high/ low spots.You may have to spray on additional primer until you can sand all of it without going thru the primer coats! In the auto trade, when i was working in it, there was a light form of catalized glazing putty which could be used over the bondo areas, to fill up the inevitable pin-holes. I"m not sure if its still being used. check at the local auto body supplier, or body shop.

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CNKS

12-03-2004 18:08:46




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 Re: Dent work in reply to Chris Willy, 12-03-2004 15:17:41  
If you barely used enough primer and topcoat to cover the sheet metal, the bondo will show, as it usually gets covered last. Otherwise you did not get the surface absolutely flat. Paint highlights defects. I have had to refinish dents and repaint a few times. If you are using surfacer, you can add topcoat to the surfacer to give it a different color, then when you sand you can see the low places in the previous coat. Sort of like a guide coat.

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mike brown

12-06-2004 14:26:47




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 Re: Dent work in reply to CNKS, 12-03-2004 18:08:46  
I use BIN shellac on this type of repair at work (boats)and on my tractors. The filler has a ceratin amount of porosity that has to be filled and the BIN works great for that plus it dries fast, sticks to just about anything and is compatible with primers and top coats. I would like to suggest that people use epoxy resin to make your fillers because it sticks so much better than polyester based bondo. I use West system resin and fillers, then glazing compound, BIN, prime and paint. Begin wet sanding with the glaze coats getting finer each step. I like an inline air sander on the filler then random orbital for wet work then hand wet sand to finish up before top coat.

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