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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Still, if I'm gonna use a rattle can

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Bill Darte

12-22-2004 10:03:55




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I am having the tin on my rehab project professionally painted, because it's off the tractor.

I am refurbishing the remainder as it needs lots of work and will paint pieces as they come off the tractor and then the cast portions in the spring. As such I am going to rattle can the parts and castings.

What is the best rattle can primer to use after I get it to metal and before the color?

I will probably do the castings by section first sanding and priming, then moving on as I will not have time to do it all at once.... can I get away with this...is there a technique for overlapping that helps?

Thanks for your help.

bd

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Smoky

12-24-2004 08:58:14




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 Re: Still, if I'm gonna use a rattle can in reply to Bill Darte, 12-22-2004 10:03:55  
If you are going to have the sheet metal painted professionally? You might be better off painting the cast iron and other parts with the same paint, so color, texture and eventual fade will match. On the cast iron, a small foam roller, foam brushes and a good natural bristol brush used carefully and with a lot of patience can yield results almost indistinquishable from a sprayed surface. The secret seems to be in using the right speed reducer and possibly a few drops of Japan Dryer in the paint (enamel). All paints are designed to flow out/level some. The secret is in controlling this rate. Just enough to level out and gloss over. Quality etching primer is available in spray bombs. Buy the good stuff.

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rustyj14

12-23-2004 11:14:15




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 Re: Still, if I'm gonna use a rattle can in reply to Bill Darte, 12-22-2004 10:03:55  
I have used those sponge brushes to paint several pieces of equipment, including mower decks, a tiller, several yard carts, etc. They do a nice job, no streaks, easy to clean, cheap to buy! And come in a variety of sizes! And they work with enamels! I haven't tried them with laquers--they'd probably melt in laquer paints and thinners. I use them mainly in enamels! How to clean them? Just pitch it into the trash! by: RJ

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rustyj14

12-23-2004 11:14:06




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 Re: Still, if I'm gonna use a rattle can in reply to Bill Darte, 12-22-2004 10:03:55  
I have used those sponge brushes to paint several pieces of equipment, including mower decks, a tiller, several yard carts, etc. They do a nice job, no streaks, easy to clean, cheap to buy! And come in a variety of sizes! And they work with enamels! I haven't tried them with laquers--they'd probably melt in laquer paints and thinners. I use them mainly in enamels! How to clean them? Just pitch it into the trash! by: RJ

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msb

12-22-2004 20:41:02




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 Re: Still, if I'm gonna use a rattle can in reply to Bill Darte, 12-22-2004 10:03:55  
A couple things I have done for years that help with spray bombs.First, I set the cans in wery warm water until,the paint is warm and then SHAKE SHAKE SHAKE.The warm paint goes on a lot smoother because the pigment gets mixed much better and the warm propellant gives you considerably more spray pressure and breaks apart the spray pattern better than cold paint.
The next thing I do is swing an arc of about 15"-18"(radius) at where the two passes meet.That will give you a nice feather edging effect.

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msb

12-22-2004 20:40:08




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 Re: Still, if I'm gonna use a rattle can in reply to Bill Darte, 12-22-2004 10:03:55  
A couple things I have done for years that help with spray bombs.First, I set the cans in wery warm water until,the paint is warm and then SHAKE SHAKE SHAKE.The warm paint goes on a lot smoother because the pigment gets mixed much better and the warm propellant gives you considerably more spray pressure and breaks apart the spray pattern better than cold paint.
The next thing I do is swing an arc of about 15"-18"(radius) at where the two passes meet.That will give you a nice feather edging effect.

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