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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

A few questions about safety. . .

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jason s.

01-20-2005 15:11:03




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I'm about ready to spray JD green without any additional products, such as a hardener. I've heard talk of a fresh air system, but am not sure what that is and if I need this. Can someone clarify? I plan on just using my charcoal mask.

For PPG MP170 epoxy primer. . .I was able to get a 'weather window' this week and shoot my frame. Again, I used the charcoal mask in a huge shop, bay doors open and good ventilation. Is this acceptable, healthwise? Are epoxy primers isocyanate primers?

Last question on epoxy primer and topcoating(not safety related): I was hoping to spray the green over the epoxy within the three day window as recommended by PPG. Is it necessary to scuff this surface? Oh yeah, is lacquer thinner an acceptable substitute for the final cleaning and rub down, or do I really need an automotive paint cleaner/degreaser. . .after, I just laid down the primer yesterday.

Thanks much -

- Jason

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Rod (NH)

01-20-2005 16:59:22




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 Re: A few questions about safety. . . in reply to jason s., 01-20-2005 15:11:03  
Hi Jason,

1. The need for a fresh air respirator system comes about with the use of isocyanate-containing additives. Typical are the hardeners used in enamels and the hardeners (also sometimes called activators) used in urethanes. If you don't use a hardener, then the use of a decent fitting cartridge mask is acceptable. A fresh air system is a special respirator that is fed fresh air under pressure directly to the mask. There is no filtration of paint products involved as there is with a cartridge mask. The fresh air equipment is relatively expensive, starting at around $400 and going up from there.

2. The epoxy primers from PPG (and probably similar products from other manufacturers) do not contain isocyanates in the additive (catalyst) so those products do not require a fresh air system. This is the exception rather than the rule. Most other two part products contain isocyanates in the second additive part. When in doubt, always check out the manufacturer's safety data sheet for the individual additive (MSDS). These are usually available on-line from the manufacturer's web site.

3. If you go past the time window of three days for the MP-170, you really should scuff it and reapply a coat. That's pretty easy to do. Use a general purpose 3M hand pad (Scotch-Brite) for the scuffing. This is to get the best possible adhesion, not only with the underlying older epoxy but also with the topcoat that you will be applying within the new 3 day window.

4. Forget lacquer thinner for final cleaning. It is not the appropriate product for that. Get some PPG DX330, Acryli-Clean. See also this link.

third party image Rod

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jason s.

01-21-2005 10:05:25




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 Re: A few questions about safety. . . in reply to Rod (NH), 01-20-2005 16:59:22  
Hi Rod -

Great! This clears matters up for me! I'm not quite sure what you recommened for point 3 though. Are you saying that it's good practice to scuff the 170 even if you are applying a topcoat or filler primer within the 3 day window?

Thanks -

Jason



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Rod (NH)

01-21-2005 15:23:21




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 Re: A few questions about safety. . . in reply to jason s., 01-21-2005 10:05:25  
If you are applying anything, topcoat directly or a surfacer (primer filler), over the epoxy, you do not have to scuff if you do it within the window (3 days for the MP170, others are different). The reason is to get a chemical bond with the epoxy before it cures too much. Epoxy is generally considered to be a non-sanding primer. After the time window passes, the epoxy is considered too far advanced in curing to obtain a good chemical bond with whatever is going on top of it. When that happens, you should scuff the epoxy to get a decent mechanical bond with an additional coat of epoxy. Then continue with either a surfacer or a topcoat, as desired. The time window starts over with the new coat of epoxy. Do you absolutely have to do this? No. But if you want the best adhesion possible, you should - it's recommended by the manufacturer. That would give a decent mechanical bond between the old and the new epoxy and a good chemical bond with either the surfacer or the topcoat. If you are using a surfacer (filler primer) then you are going to final sand with something like 400 grit anyway so the topcoat gets a decent mechanical bond with the surfacer and you are not limited by a time window. For instance, you could shoot a coat of epoxy and let the part set for as long as you want. It provides excellent corrosion protection. When it comes time to proceed, scuff the epoxy, reapply a coat of it and proceed to apply a surfacer. You could, if your schedule dictated it, let the part set again for as long as you wanted. When it came time for your topcoat, just do your final sanding and cleanup and shoot your topcoat.

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