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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

primer coverage or removal?

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Doris

02-14-2005 15:08:15




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I sand blasted a lot of the small pieces of my garden tractor I'm restoring and painted them with a rattle can rust preventive type of primer just to keep the rust from them until time to do a finish coat. I do not have the finish paint yet but will I have to remove the first primer I applied and then get a matching set of primer and paint? This is all new to a little old lady so please help me anyway you can. Thanks

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Rod (NH)

02-15-2005 09:50:05




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 Re: primer coverage or removal? in reply to Doris, 02-14-2005 15:08:15  
Hi Doris,

I'll give an opinion. It depends on your goals for the tractor, the amount of time and money that you wish to spend and the existing equipment that you have available. It is doubtful that a rattle can paint can compare in performance with a conventional automotive type of paint that is applied by the standard spray process. You have taken the extra effort for a very good prep by sandblasting. What are your plans for the topcoat? If you plan to use a rattle can color, I would suggest that you try and find a product from the same manufacturer as that of the primer you used and that also references that identical primer to be used under it. That way you will not be unpleasantly surprised at any compatibility problems that might crop up. On the other hand, if you are contemplating something of a higher quality level, then I think the rattle can primer would be not considered a good base and should be removed prior to continuing. It is possible that it can work w/o removal but it is not a guarantee nor is it the best base for a "better" topcoat. Does it have to be removed? Probably not. Should it be removed? Probably. Sorry I can't be more definitive than that at this point. If you were planning on using an automotive acrylic urethane as your topcoat, I would definitely suggest removal. If you were planning on a rattle can topcoat of similar chemistry to the primer and from the same manufacturer, I would not suggest you bother with removal. A rattle can job can be done quite well so don't get me wrong. There are those that have done large tractors that way. And if you don't have the application equipment for regular paints and don't wish to spend a good sum to get it for a one time use, you are very limited in choices. One thing I would caution you on is to keep everything out of the rain, using nothing more than the primer you have so far. It may be a primer but unlike epoxies, most do not provide that great a resistance to weathering w/o a topcoat and you can get rust starting right through them after a time.

I would also suggest that if you have any significant priming work remaining, that you consider a much better method. A two part epoxy such as PPG's OMNI MP170 is an outstanding choice for a bare metal primer. It is perfect to use over your excellent sandblasted surface. It is also impervious to moisture so you can leave your parts out in the rain for lengthy periods w/o topcoat and not have any rusting start. It does not come in rattle cans but you can still use it without conventional spray equipment by using the inexpensive Preval sprayer. That would be ideal for the small parts of a garden tractor and would provide the best and I mean the best primer for any topcoat - from rattle can to the highest quality automotive urethane. At least in my opinion :o). third party image Rod

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Doris

02-15-2005 10:56:46




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 Re: primer coverage or removal? in reply to Rod (NH), 02-15-2005 09:50:05  
Thanks for the answer. I plan on using a good automotive type paint as a finish coat.I guess I should have ask some questions before hand but it won't take long to remove the old primer. I have a small blasting cabinet.Thanks again for the info.At least I know what to do with the larger pieces now.



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Rod (NH)

02-15-2005 14:36:34




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 Re: primer coverage or removal? in reply to Doris, 02-15-2005 10:56:46  
Doris,

Just a note to say that most epoxy primers have a specific time window for topcoating. The MP170 mentioned has three days. Others will be different. After the time window has passed, the normal recommendation is to scuff sand (a Scotch-Brite hand pad is OK for that), reapply a coat of epoxy, then proceed to the next step, either final color or sandable surfacer, within the new time window. I don't consider that a problem but thought I would mention it so you would at least be aware of it before you make any decision.

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