Question for CNKS r/e Picklex 20

I'd like to try again using your recommendation. Where do you purchase Picklex 20? How long have you been able to hold stripped parts prior to priming? Have you used Picklex 20 after electrolysis? I derust most of my sheetmetal parts that way, and they sure begin rusting quickly after they're out of the tank. Also, I recall you saying you don't wash it off with water, as you would with the metal cleaner I used. Any other tips?

Thanks

PPG's DX579 is not intended as a rust preventative. It's a metal cleaner that can remove light incidental rust as part of a two step process in preparing bare metal for painting. If you follow PPG's recommendations for use, the DX579, after rinsing, should be followed with DX520, metal conditioner and then after a second rinsing, primed the same day. These are products that are intended to etch and condition the metal for essentially immediate painting. They both contain phosphoric acid but so do many different products that somehow deal with bare metal and rusting. I have used them in the past but they are messy to bother with. On surfaces that are sandblasted to bright metal, they are not recommended at all by the company (Henkel Surface Technologies) that supplies them to PPG. As you suggest, not all products that contain phosphoric acid in varying amounts are the same.

My work now that is sandblasted gets an epoxy prime the same day with no chemical prep. I reserve the phosphoric acid prep with the DX579/520 (or equivalent DuPont products) for smooth bare steel (not sandblasted) that I don't want to sand enough to require the use of a surfacer after epoxy. Chemical stripping of decent sheet steel that otherwise requires no bodywork would be an example.

I have a similar problem to yours though when it comes to cold weather. I purchased some Picklex 20 last fall to use this winter after some sandblasting of small parts so I could defer the actual priming till warmer weather. That plan has not worked out yet since I have done no blasting in my cabinet, even though I wanted too. It's been too cold plus there have been other priorities. I know CNKS has had good luck that way with it and that's what it is advertised to do. That's why I bought some. I purchased it from autobodystore.com. I used to have a link to the actual application instructions but I can't seem to locate it. It did say it was OK to use on sandblasted steel. Here's a basic info sheet on the stuff however.

Rod

I havn't used picklex, but I have used "Must for Rust" which aparently works the same. I got it from the local Farm&Fleet store in the paint department. It should be available from any large hardware home improvement store where they keep the paint strippers and stuff.

I have been sandblasting much of my Ford 4000 and spraying the MFR on the bare metal. Use a rag to wipe it into the parts and to keep too much from pooling. If the parts are still dirty or rusty, they will either have more white residue or some dark purplish residue. I have been re-blasting the dark stuff to get down to bare clean metal.

As soon as my supplied air respirator gets here, I will prime and paint. Others have recommended to remove any white residue by scotch bright pad. The MFR web site says to rewet and wipe with a clean rag. That seems to work and the white stuff stays away then.

Good luck!
jb

Thanks for the information. As I read further into the archives I found the discussion between you and CNKS about MFR vs Picklex - quite a price difference! Have you found the MFR prevents rusting after you've sandblasted?

Guess I can just give it a try and see what happens. I'm going to prime with OMNI 170 epoxy, but I can be stripping in the winter even though it's too cold to prime. (Have to wait till my electrolysis tank fully melts though . . .)

So far I have used about 2 & 1/2 64 oz bottles of the must for rust. They were on clearance sale for something like $4.99 each. I initially tried to see if it would take off rust in pock mark areas. It does, but slow and with many wipes and reapplications. I have been sandblasting a lot of parts while I wait for my supplied air respirator from autobodystore.com. The parts have not shown any surface rust, but it has only been 4 weeks on the oldest parts. However, some have been water splashed and no rust has formed.

Good luck,
john_bud