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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Painting aluminum

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ChadS

03-25-2005 16:21:20




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Does it take a different kind of paint to paint aluminum? I have a pulling tractor that I had built an aluminum hood for, and getting ready to paint it. Any prep tips, or what kind of paint will hold to aliminum? thank you! ChadS




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Rod (NH)

03-26-2005 09:43:16




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 Re: Painting aluminum in reply to ChadS, 03-25-2005 16:21:20  
Hi Chad,

No "correction" to anyone. However, in your case, provided the aluminum is not heavily oxidized, I'd prefer to use a specific chemical pretreatment prior to an epoxy primer like the MP170. I'm thinking of PPG DX-533 Cleaner and DX-503 Conditioner applied by scrubbing with a Scotch-Brite hand pad. DuPont has similar dedicated products for aluminum (225S/226S). I've used the DX-533/DX-501 combination before when directly clearcoating an engine aluminum rocker cover. Worked very well with no adhesion or other problems for several years inside a hot engine compartment. It was still in great condition when I got rid of the vehicle.

I am not a fan of combination products like etch primers. It's not that they don't work. They do. And they have a loyal following, especially in bodyshops where faster turnaround means higher profits. It's just that sometimes they have restrictions on use that I prefer to avoid. Plus, as CNKS and Frank say, most of 'em recommend another product (primer or surfacer) be applied over them prior to topcoating anyway. In any event, if a chemical pretreatment like the DX-533/503 is used, it is specifically recommended to not use any kind of additional etch primer. Epoxy, yes. Etch, no. Also I was surprised to find out not long ago (I think on this board), there is at least one lesser known epoxy primer (made by Valspar I think) out there that has some kind of "etch" (acid) function built into its' chemistry. Such a primer, even though it is called an epoxy, should not be used over an etch primer or over the above noted chemical pretreatment. As always, you should get and follow the manufacturer's specific tech sheets for each of the products you plan to use. It will minimize the possibility of problems.

third party image Rod

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Frank Stalfire

03-26-2005 19:30:14




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 Re: Painting aluminum in reply to Rod (NH), 03-26-2005 09:43:16  
HI Chad
Just a quick follow up to Rod's post, Rod is 100% correct about NOT using an etch after a conversion coating, they are a phosforic wash and when used with acid form a crystalized film that hurts adheasion ,and as Rod points out most epoxy's have acid and because of this should not be used either. Good catch Rod.
Frank



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Rod (NH)

03-27-2005 07:12:34




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 Re: Painting aluminum in reply to Frank Stalfire, 03-26-2005 19:30:14  
Frank,

I don't think I implied that most epoxies have acid. At least that was not my intention or understanding. The PPG epoxies I use (OMNI MP170 or DPLF) specifically state they may be used over PPG's etch or wash primers or, in the case of DPLF, over the DX metal treatments (phosphoric acid based). The MP170 is silent on the DX treatments since there are no similar products in the OMNI line. I have never used the MP170 over a DX treatment for aluminum, but I have used it over DuPont's 5717S/5718S phosphoric acid based pretreatment successfully on sheet steel.

I have never used DuPont's DTM epoxy primer. The time window (24 hrs) is too short for my liking. The tech sheet for it seems to be silent on the Vari-Prime etch primer but does indicate that 5717S pretreatment (acid) is an acceptable substrate. The same goes for DuPont's old Corlar epoxy, now in the fleet line. I therefore presume that neither of the DuPont epoxies contain acid but that may not be correct.

I was under the impression that most epoxy primers did not have an acid "etch" feature. That is why I was surprised to learn the Valspar product (I forget the tradename) indicated that it did and not to use it over an etch. That would presumably include either an etch primer or any acidic pretreatments.

If you understand that most epoxies contain an acid etch feature, I guess the PPG ones are more unique than I thought. I may have to revise and narrow my thinking on my favorite type of primer.

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Frank Stalfire

03-25-2005 20:08:56




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 Re: Painting aluminum in reply to ChadS, 03-25-2005 16:21:20  
Hi Chad
Aluminum usually is no problem so long as you are painting automotive grade aluminum, when you stray into uncharted waters things get "iffy". The auotmakers all use the same alloy or aluminum mix, aluminum in never pure aluminum it's a mix of alum. and some other metal, since automakers keep things simple we can make a "blanket" reccomendation and set proceedures for refinishing, if you just buy a sheet somewhere and want to finish it you will need to test the coating. That being said and this being a tractor and not the nose cone to Leer jet, just use an etch primer or epoxy like CNKS said and topcoat if epoxy and seal then topcoat if etch is used and you should be fine, stick to etch primer in a quart and not a spray can the spray cans have less than 12% acid and you don't etch the surface deep enough for good adheasion, the quarts have between 25-50% acid, also if you abrade the surface with either media blasting or coarse sanding you wont need the etch you will have a profile to adheare to, so it's your choice. Hope this helps and doesn't confuse.
Frank

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CNKS

03-25-2005 17:39:39




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 Re: Painting aluminum in reply to ChadS, 03-25-2005 16:21:20  
Unless Rod(NH) corrects me you can sand it and use epoxy primer, the same way as other metals. Etch is ok, but you have to put another primer over it anyway, then topcoat. Scroll down in the link until you see PPG MP 170 epoxy primer, instructions are given for it's use.



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G

03-25-2005 17:21:31




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 Re: Painting aluminum in reply to ChadS, 03-25-2005 16:21:20  
No special paint is needed but for it to stick you need to sand the hood 220 to 320 grit and apply an etching primer
Since your just doing a hood and to keep costs down I"d suggest a spray can of NAPA 7220 self etching primer. One can is god for several coats.
Let dry overnight then lightly wet sand with 600 or 1000 grit paper and mild soapy water. Rinse well and air dry. Remember to tack cloth the surface before painting.
You should end up with a gleaming and long lasting paint job.
Good Luck!

Gene

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