Paint code for Allis Chalmers C???

Here is the visual comparison Rod(NH) was refering to. It is posted in parts and pieces along with a few other test shots. I'll just chime in with my $.02 on paint. I switched to PPG paint because after painting a Farmall F-12 with Dupont's Imron. I wanted to pick up some paint for my allis G, considing I had some expensive activator, primer, ect.. left over I figured this paint job would be cheaper. Guess what, my dupont jobber couldn't/wouldn't get the correct color I wanted in Imron. But I could buy this other expensive activator, ect... in the Nason line (wrong color to boot). all in all I'm finding it easier to get the correct color's I need in PPG. if your going to be painting more tractors buy a fresh air supply and use the ureathans. Better paint, if it's not cheaper in price it soon will be and longer lasting. good luck and time for coffee

If you are talking about the codes obtained from a link over on the left side of this page, I would take them all with the proverbial grain of salt. Your C was originally in persian orange. There are two different persian oranges that were used by AC. The early version was a pumpkin shade of orange and you will sometimes hear it referred to as "persian #1". That early version was used up until about 1960, which means all Cs were of the early shade of the color. The later version has more red in it and is sometimes referred to as "persian #2". I have never seen a paint manufacturer refer to the two colors as #1 or #2 so you have to be careful. The earlier shade is much harder to find than the later one. Here's a visual comparison of the two in PPG codes, compared with the original paint from my '42B. All Bs and Cs used the same early paint shade. If you want to be original (or just prefer the shade), you want the PPG 60080. It is the closest match you are likely to find.

The 29047 DuPont Dulux mentioned at this site is old history. Dulux was a very popular alkyd enamel used for a very long time. It went the way of the Dodo bird quite some time ago. If you went to a DuPont dealer and asked for 29047 Dulux, they probably would have a laugh at your expense. You'd be twenty years too late :o). The 29047 also has too much red in it and is much more like the later persian orange. The closest thing I have seen in DuPont to persian #1 is code YS074. If you wish to stick with DuPont, that's the one I would recommend. It's a generic color called "Spectramaster Yellow". Don't let the name fool you. It's definitely an orange. Jason (ma) has had some visual sprayout panels posted on this board with several trial codes for the early persian color, including the YS074. The links escape me at the moment. Do a search in this forum on Jason (ma) and you should find the pictures easily. It was within the last 2 or 3 of months, I think.

Here's what the PPG 60080 looks like on my '42B. You can also get another good comparison of the PPG 60080 with original here. Compare the gas tank with 60080 and the faded original underside of the fender.

I assume you are talking a spray application. If you decide on either PPG or DuPont, you will also have to decide on paint chemistry. Each company can mix the same color in more than one chemistry. Cost and application safety are two issues for the "backyard painter" to consider. If you need more information on these matters, postback and someone will help out.

Rod

You are correct. An enamel without the hardener is safer than an enamel with the additive and safer than all urethanes, which actually require a hardener/activator be used.

Enamels w/o hardeners can be safely applied using a standard chemical cartridge mask ($35 or so). The use of hardeners or activators in paints adds especially nasty chemicals of a family called isocyanates. Some two-part epoxy primers are exceptions. Do a search in this forum on the word isocyanates or isos and you will find a lot of links describing the health problems in using such materials. Here's one such link. Hardeners can be safely used but to do so requires a positive pressure, fresh air respirator. Such safety equipment is typically in the range of $400-$600 and up. Most backyard casual painters do not routinely have such equipment and really should consider their options before jumping into using hardeners.

As with a lot of things, different people are affected to varying degrees by exposure to isocyanates and you may find some who say there is no problem using a standard cartridge mask. However, I do not agree with such a conclusion and based on past personal experience I do not recommend anyone use hardener paint additives without also using a fresh air respirator. One can have severe symptoms of asthma within hours of exposure. The preponderance of evidence of adverse health affects over the past 20 years simply is too great to ignore. There have even been deaths associated directly with the use of such products w/o proper breathing protection. Do a net search on Google or some other search engine on "isocyanate". You'll find plenty of reading to evaluate the matter on your own. Also read the fine print on any can of hardener and see what is recommended by the manufacturer for appropriate breathing protection. You can also check out the MSDS (manufacturer's safety data sheet) for hardeners at most supplier's websites. The MSDS for the particular product will provide a lot of safety related information regarding use as well as the proper breathing protection.

Hardeners are pretty much standard for use in modern paints, especially automotive paints. They provide increased durability and a "better" overall product. In my opinion, such improvement is not worth the health risk to the user w/o correct respiratory protection. In the end, however, it is a personal choice for each individual to make as long as he is working for himself. Rod