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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Glazing putty?

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Jason(PA)

06-22-2005 19:00:57




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I never really messed with glazing putty. I have heard of alot of people use it to fill in those un wanted pits in things such as the hood or fenders. I have a dumb question ,but go you spread it over bear metal then sand or do you primer then spread and then primer over it again? Thanks for any help. Any other tips on getting the pits out please let me know.




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Rod (NH)

06-22-2005 20:27:45




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 Re: Glazing putty? in reply to Jason(PA), 06-22-2005 19:00:57  
Hi Jason,

There are different kinds of "glazing putty". I recommend the two-part finishing putty rather than the older, single component, acrylic or lacquer-based "spot putty". It also depends on how deep the pits are. Generally I prefer to epoxy prime first, apply the putty, sand and then reprime. However, I've also done it the other way by applying the putty before primer. In that case however, I used a product to prevent flash rusting so I wasn't concerned with getting a first coat of primer on immediately. You can see some pictures of that particular fix for pits here. See photos numbered 14, 15 and 16. As it turned out, many of the pits were deeper than I thought and in hindsight I should have applied putty over the entire fender rather than just the area shown and counting on a surfacer for the others. You can notice those other pits in photo number 20. If you are not using a two-part epoxy primer however, I think the two-part putty should go directly on the metal, after sanding or blasting the surface to provide "tooth" for adhesion. If instead, you wind up using the lacquer-based spot putty, I think that should not go directly on bare metal but only over a primer or surfacer.

third party image Rod

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GordoSD

06-26-2005 16:02:34




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 Re: Glazing putty? in reply to Rod (NH), 06-22-2005 20:27:45  
Rod, your'e on the right track but here are some hints I learned from the body shop pros. After sandblasting, or before, go over the tin with an 80 grit flap wheel. Either the 7 inch or if you are just learning, the 5 inch on a good angle grinder. Now double coat with etching primer. Sand with long board /180 to show up the highs and lows, don't remove it til metal is "shiny" just a glint of metal where it is high Then instead of expensive two part "putty" just go ahean and mix up a big batch of body filler,(Bondo) and use a wide spreader and cover any bad spots, or the entire fender. This eliminates every pit. Also takes care of small dents and waves. Use the long board sander, 180/220 grit (dry) and smoothe that up. Use surfacer to final prep, 320 wet block sanding. It should come out like new Jaguar, last forever.

GordoSD

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