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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

First tractor restoration - need tips

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Lindsey

06-30-2005 14:40:48




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OK, here I go. I have an MM V that I have been acquiring the necessary engine parts for. I wanted to get all the parts I needed before tearing the engine down to take it in for valve seats, and to install new guides and valves. I have what I need and so can now start removing the engine. For this tractor, since they are small and simple, I figured I would do a total dismantle to make sure bearings and seals are good or replace them. Then when in pieces, sandblast down to clean metal. There are very small fenders, the gas tank, hood and front grill that are sheet metal. The rest of the parts are cast or steel. This will be the first time I will be painting when I really care about getting a good finish. Everything else I have done I was not fussy. What I do want is to have a nice finish on the sheet metal, which is not pitted, just normal surface rust(at least as best I can tell) I would like to avoid having the paint shrivel around the gas cap area like I have seen on some other tractors. I have a good compressor, but no paint gun. I do not have respirator setup.

Now to my questions:

1) what is a good paint brand that can be mixed to the Prairie Gold II color, that will also have a compatible primer, and a good one for a beginner.
2) what is a good paint gun 3) I do not have a controlled climate area to work/store pieces in after sandblasting, just an normal garage. How would this affect how I do things(sandblast & prime same day? Then what about painting, same day/next day?). I am in central MN so we do get swings in humidity. 4) I have read about and know the dangers with certain paints that have iso's in them, and since I dont have respirator/air supply equip. is painting outdoors on a lower humidity day an option, or is the danger still there in an outdoor situation?

As many, I have more time than money so what can I get by with and what not? I have once thought of using a small squirrel cage fan attached to dryer hose and then using an old hardhat to hook the hose to for a clean air supply. I would still paint outside, but would that work well and then be able to use paint with iso's in it? I know it sounds goofy and such, but what is needed is a clean air supply and it seems like it would work although I wouldn't be winning any awards for glamour. The fan would be set in an area away (upwind) from where I would be painting. If it would work then I could save the $$ for maybe a better paint & primer. Well that's about all the questions I know to ask. Anyone care to take a crack at some advice?

thanks Lindsey

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CNKS

07-01-2005 18:07:30




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 Re: First tractor restoration - need tips in reply to Lindsey, 06-30-2005 14:40:48  
Most of the answers to your questions are in the archives--I type slowly, and to answer in any detail would take a book. Briefly -- 1) PPG, DuPont, Martin Senour, Sherwin Williams can mix quality paint -- I don't know the color codes -- Rod(NH) lists PPG codes in the link. Stay away from "tractor store" paint, it is low quality. 2) A gun that will last you forever is $200+, some people are happy with $50 guns, I really don't have specific recommendations, once you get to a relatively high dollar gun, it becomes a matter of opinion. 3) What you get done in a couple of days depends on how fast you work, I'm not coordinated well enough to get everything done in 2 days. My parts sit around for several days or weeks, or for the tractor I'm currently working on, months. Do a search for Picklex 20, a rust preventative that will protect newly cleaned metal, or else prime them with epoxy primer, then scuff and repeat if you are outside the recommended window when you finally topcoat. I don't know what an MM V is, in any case you need to at least triple the time you think it will take you to do it, and if you have never done it before, that won't be enough. 4)Iso's REQUIRE a supplied air system, inside or outside. People have fabricated their own "supplied air systems", my preference was to bite the bullet and buy one I could depend on. You have to have sufficient air flow to prevent the fumes from entering your facepiece. You have to be positive that the fumes are excluded. The above are general statements, if you have more specific questions, someone here will have an answer.

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wjh

07-03-2005 23:34:43




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 Re: First tractor restoration - need tips in reply to CNKS, 07-01-2005 18:07:30  
Prep is 90% of a good paint job. Painting is 10%.
All of the advice the other fellow gave you is right on the money. I do this for a living. Do the very best job of preping that you can, then use good materials to do your finish work.



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