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Hi, I know it's disappointing but take heart - it happens to everyone. Fortunately, since you used the urethane, you should be able to fix it fairly easily. No starting over and no repriming unless you get down to bare metal for some reason - and I doubt that. I'll give you a couple of suggestions on how to approach it: 1. Cut down the run area and compound to bring back the gloss as Russ1 suggests. I think I would start out with something a lot coarser than 2000 however, and when the majority of the run(s) are cut down to near the surrounding area, switch to finer grits ending up with, say 1500 or 2000. A lot depends on how extensive the run(s) are, if they are more like continuous sags, how close they are to a change in metal profile and whether you already have anything that can be used for power compounding. I have found that cutting a run down to near-level is pretty simple using a run file - they work great, assuming you are not working in a valley (concave) area. If you are, or the area is very tight, then there are rigid contoured sanding blocks available to be used with any grit of paper. I would plan on compounding the entire panel(s) in order to achieve a uniform appearance. You may be able to avoid doing that but I wouldn't plan on it. You have to be careful at any adges or change in contour or you can cut through to primer, especially if you use an agressive compound. 2. There's another way which I like, especially if the runs or sags are extensive, or if they occur before the last coat, or if they are in an area that is difficult to power compound, as is the case in many instances with tractors. That is to cut down the runs level with the surrounding paint using a run file. Scuff sand the entire panel with 400 dry and reshoot the panel with one or two color coats. The potential problem with this method is, of course, that you run a risk of getting more runs or having something else get messed up - like orange peel. I have compounded errors in the past but don't really like it. The last time I had unacceptable orange peel I just sanded the peel down and reshot the panel - a truck hood. I found it to be easier and faster than bothering with the compounding. I have also used it as a run repair fix. Most others would disagree but I don't think it's that big a deal to scuff sand and reshoot some color. Of course you can start with number 1 and if it doesn't turn out to your satisfaction, you can proceed to number 2. As I say, the run files work great. They peel down the run little by little just like a plane shaves off wood until the surface is flush with the surrounding paint. With reasonable care, there is no damage to the adjacent paint. Caveat: I have been told that compounding a single stage paint will result in a reduction in UV protection and the possibility of premature fading. My limited past experience with compounding premium single stage paints has not shown that to be a problem. However, I did not keep the vehicles over five years afterwards. The economy ss paints nowadays may be more susceptible to reduced UV protection by compounding. I am not taking a stand on this. I just don't know since I have never componded an OMNI single stage like MTK.  Rod
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