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Hi Tom, I am getting into developing quite a lengthy description of my own personal thoughts regarding the different automotive-type paints available in an email to Tim below. As you say, cost is usually a major consideration in any paint job...and compromises usually have to be made. For a loader that works in the dirt you are asking a lot of any paint system and I really don’t think you want to go with any automotive type paint...not with your cost limit of $100. I also think your cost limit is a wise one, given the application. When I get the stuff finished for Tim, I will post it under his post below for others to consider when choosing a paint system for their tractors. There probably will be many other opinions, but what the hey, that’s what the forum is for...to consider different opinions and choose the one that’s right for YOU. I can’t help you with paint codes. Grinding to bare metal? Not necessarily. Do you have many coats of old paint that is now flaking away and leaving rusty areas (like my Oliver 77)? If so, you probably WILL want to take most of it off and start out with something fresh. For your particular case, I would not bother with sandblasting. That is time consuming and messy. It also gets into every nook and cranny...I assume the loader is on the tractor and you are not going to remove it. I am not familiar with the grinder you mention...if it is intended for grinding steel, it probably is not the best thing to use. I suspect your wheel would clog up with paint pretty quick. 3M makes a 5" diameter, 24 grit "paint buster" sanding disc that has a 7/8" diameter center hole. They work pretty well for heavy paint removal if you could adapt them for use with your grinder. Also what would work well is a tungsten carbide (I think) disc made by Porter Cable for removing heavy paint films off house siding. Woodworking stores should have 'em. I have one and like it...doesn't clog up at all. It is also about 5" in diameter. I use the disc mounted on a pneumatic sander. I am also assuming here that you are not concerned with some grinding swirl marks showing through the final paint film. For the grinding/sanding operation, any inexpensive particulate respirator or mask should do the trick...not for paint spraying though. That is another subject that is covered in my thoughts to Tim. I am not going to attempt to address how to handle the issue if any lead-based paint is involved...let’s just leave it that I am not qualified to advise and you probably don’t want to know anyway...no sense making this into a government project :o). I will try and deal with the primer issue and how I would go about dealing with the rust in my thoughts to Tim. For your application though, since you are not going to be shooting for a "mirror finish", I think a product called "EXTEND" by Loctite/Permatex would be appropriate for the rusty areas. That’s what I plan on using for a rusty dump body on one of my trucks. For now,
Rod
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