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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Painting Tractors... I Need Help!!!

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NB1066

07-25-2005 21:12:52




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A two years ago I painted a 966 for a 4-h project and i was really pleased... but now that im a little older and painting tractors for my dad... i am looking for the best possible performance from my cih 2150... i have heard all the griping about 2150... but now that we have it... i have to use it up on this tractor... here are some questions.... please help me!!

1- what ratio of thinner to hardener to color should i use

2- primer surfacer or cih primer

3- wet sanding of primer.. 400 then 800 or finer?

now... for future reference... what is an economical paint that would color match and make excellent deep shine... my next project is my 1066 3000 rpm puller... im thinking about a 5 millionth clone but im not certain... any info that you have would be excellent thanks... please feel free to email me...

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GordoSD

08-01-2005 03:12:58




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 Re: Painting Tractors... I Need Help!!! in reply to NB1066, 07-25-2005 21:12:52  
8:1:1

400

Primer on cast iron, surfacer on panels that need
dings, rust pits etc filled.

Gordo



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Jon3480

08-06-2005 19:46:37




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 Re: Painting Tractors... I Need Help!!! in reply to GordoSD, 08-01-2005 03:12:58  
If you realyy want the tractor to come out nice use 400 on the primer then lay down a second coat. then lay downt your desired coler color sand with at least like in the thousands for you first coat of paint then paint it again and it will be soo shinney an sooooo smoth you will love it



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CNKS

07-26-2005 05:27:23




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 Re: Painting Tractors... I Need Help!!! in reply to NB1066, 07-25-2005 21:12:52  
I haven't used CIH 2150, so you might ask Rusty. Ratio of paint-reducer-hardener should be on the can, or on some instruction sheet. Haven't used CIH primer either. I prefer a true surfacer, because it fills sanding scratches, and you can get it absolutely smooth. Usually 400 grit is fine enough for surfacer, I would say no finer than 600. I think you can get too fine and not get adhesion. The finer grits are more for color sanding, when you are going to compound and polish, rather than repaint. If you use epoxy primer on bare metal (under the surfacer) you prepare the bare metal with a coarser grade, the recommendation for PPG MP 170 is no finer than 180 grit. MP 170, on sheet metal, must be coated with surfacer because it will not hide sanding scratches. Also you shouldn't use a surfacer or primer surfacer on bare metal because it may not stick properly, I don't think CIH primer is a true surfacer, although I believe it can be sanded. Epoxy is preferred on bare metal because it gives excellent adhesion. Perhaps Rod(NH) can add something. My advice would be to ask one of your puller friends that has an immaculate tractor and ask what they used, as fancy paint jobs seem to be what the modified pulling class like. You may want something better than CIH 2150, or Omni, since you are "showing" your tractor.

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BPNT

08-04-2005 21:00:15




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 Re: Painting Tractors... I Need Help!!! in reply to CNKS, 07-26-2005 05:27:23  
FYI, the minimum grit WET sand that will provide adequate mechanical adhesion of subsequent topcoat over any primer or topcoat is 1000grit (800 grit for dry sand). Epoxies are prefered over bare metal primarily because they are the only waterproof (and thus rust proof) primer available so long as they are not sanded (only the top 1/3rd of epoxies are water tight). Most epoxies must be topcoated between 30 minutes and 3-7 days. If this window is missed, the epoxy must be scuffed and reapplied before topcoating.

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