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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

71310 Omni

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muggsw6

07-28-2005 05:35:40




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Been following scott2 posts last couple days, i'm in a similar situation,sort of. My problem is,i've already got my chassis painted with 2150.So it's very important that whatever i use match 2150. I had the paint guy at parts store mix me a sample of 71310 yesterday,then used touch-up brush to check against fresh(dry)paint on valve cover...looks too orange to me.I really didn't want to paint over what I've already painted as quite a bit of assembly is complete.I guess what I need is to know how s2's experiment came out,or what the he!! to do now! I KNOW i'll NEVER change paints in the middle of the stream again!!

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scott#2

07-28-2005 18:58:03




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 Re: 71310 Omni in reply to muggsw6, 07-28-2005 05:35:40  
I just havent had time to post the pics but the one mix with less orange parts looks acceptable to me but still just a smidge off. I doubt you could see the difference with posted pics. I was thinking of going back and getting another sample and this time make up the orange with red, 6 or 7 parts. I see so little difference with 7 parts orange removed and made up with clear, sure did lay down real nice though. A friend of mine came by and I showed the sprayed pieces to him and he said he would like to see a little blue in the mix. I think thats pusshing it with these guys at the PPG store. Before I posted the pics, I also wanted to take them in different lighting. One under natural white flourescent one in direct sun (exposed correctly) and one in daylight, no sun. (overcast)

The one with 7 parts orange removed does look better though but I just havent had time to really look at them in all the different lighting conditione to draw a conclusion. The accurate mix that I stood at the scale and watched looks better but in my eye, not quite right.

2 weeks ago I said I would probably start on the tin. Here I am still fussing with paint, CNKS you might beat me here.

While were on the subject here, who can fill me in on the right reducers and hardners, slow, medium, fast, etc? I have what they gave me but they said they didnt have the one type I wanted and they gave me slow or extra slow, is this ok?

Ill try to get the pics up on Sat.

Thank You,

scott

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CNKS

07-28-2005 19:52:02




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 Re: 71310 Omni in reply to scott#2, 07-28-2005 18:58:03  
As to reducers/hardeners, look at the orange peel post containing Rod(NH)'s response started by Charles Park -- I'm not going to beat you there, I'm still filling dents, etc. I forget where you are, but you probably want medium or slow this time of year. As Rod mentioned if you need extra slow, you probably shouldn't be painting.



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BPNT

08-04-2005 22:11:38




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 Re: 71310 Omni in reply to CNKS, 07-28-2005 19:52:02  
First of all, for anyone to say it is too hot to paint is...well misinformed. Go into any major collision repair facility and you will see that they bake their finished product at 140F...doubt it gets that hot where you are-even in Death Valley. Modern-day urethanes are designed to cure between 58F and 150F (58F, ironically being the natural ambient temperature of most caves and the temperature at which most wines ferment best.) Forget about what you've read, orange peel and other paint problems are most-likely contributed to 'pilot-error' than to some short-coming of the product. Practice is the best remedy short of good buffer technique. Hey, the truth hurts, but do you want to learn how to do it right or feel good doing it wrong?

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CNKS

08-06-2005 08:59:16




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 Re: 71310 Omni in reply to BPNT, 08-04-2005 22:11:38  
I have trouble understanding many of your comments--as to this one, no one is blaming the paint for orange peel, most people on this forum are well aware of the need for experience. The buffer is an escape technique that I use when I screw up, and don't want to repaint. Bodyshops also use it as an escape technique, because most I have dealt with screw up on a regular basis. The last few days my painting area has been 98 degrees, my current tractor is not yet ready to paint -- I'm not about to paint in that high a temperature, anyway, probably requires more skill that I will ever have. A baked on finish is not supposed to occur as the paint is applied, but after you are done. Have you ever painted when it was 98 degrees, inside in the shade??

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CNKS

07-28-2005 06:53:41




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 Re: 71310 Omni in reply to muggsw6, 07-28-2005 05:35:40  
Rod is correct. You are never going to match it no matter what you buy, or how much you pay. Your only choice is to get some more 2150 from your dealer and hope it matches. If you are wanting to change because of my comments about 2150, don't worry about it. 2150 is better than the average tractor dealer paint, certainly better than tractor store paint. Use it on the rest of your tractor, then if you want better quality on your next tractor, use PPG or some other major brand.

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Rod (NH)

07-28-2005 06:43:58




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 Re: 71310 Omni in reply to muggsw6, 07-28-2005 05:35:40  
Hi,

Why are you changing paints half way through - or even considering it? Why not complete with the 2150 that you started with? You likely will never be satisfied with such a course of action if you change. The safest bet is to stick with the same chemistry, the same manufacturer and even the same can of paint throughout. If you have more than one can, mix them together to get a guaranteed uniform color in a quantity that is sufficient to do the entire job. Even the same OEM premixed paint can vary a bit between contract batches. And automotive paint matches, even with the same code number and manufacturer, can vary between chemistries, cost and with the care exercised by the person doing the mixing. Some of the higher end automotive paints even have several "variations" in formula for the exact same code number. An actual visual comparison to the original, using a sprayout card, is needed in order to be able to select which "variation" is necessary for a particular task. Minimize your risks and frustration and stick with the 2150 for this project.

third party image Rod

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muggsw6

07-28-2005 07:04:46




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 Re: 71310 Omni in reply to Rod (NH), 07-28-2005 06:43:58  
Yes, you guys are right.I guess I got caught up in the heat of the moment.I suppose even if i did get the color to match,at some point they wouldnt again (different rate of fade etc).I've seen too many multi-hued tractors,I should know better.Thanks for draggin' me back to my senses, if I ever had any anyway!!!



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