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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Reducer for Quality farm Fleet paint

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Mike S 806/H

07-31-2005 23:04:02




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I found a gallon can of Quality Farm & Fleet international red paint I would have to say 10 years old!!! I opened it up and it looks good! I made a mixer for the drill, It"s thick what can I reduce it with? I used mineral spirits with there paint a long time ago to paint a V-Ripper but takes so long to dry, what else can I use??




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RustyFarmall

08-01-2005 05:29:47




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 Re: Reducer for Quality farm Fleet paint in reply to Mike S 806/H, 07-31-2005 23:04:02  
I think the other reducer that can be used with that paint is called VM&P Naptha. Not sure I spelled it correctly. The slow curing time might just be the nature of the paint. I used some of it about a month ago, did not use ANY reducer, I got acceptable results, but the paint is still somewhat soft.



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gary case

08-01-2005 10:28:02




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 Re: Reducer for Quality farm Fleet paint in reply to RustyFarmall, 08-01-2005 05:29:47  
i'm about to do the same thing on my 530. this is hershel adams i'm using. calls for naptha thinner. at napa, i was told to use a hardener.painted frame and body with same paint and it did take a long time to dry. the guy that sand blasted my sheet metal told me to use uarthane primer to hide any rusty pits and so on.showed me his p/u and it was nice.have to find out about that primer.



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CNKS

08-01-2005 10:41:30




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 Re: Reducer for Quality farm Fleet paint in reply to gary case, 08-01-2005 10:28:02  
If you use a hardener, you need a supplied air system--a cartridge mask won't do. Your sandblaster is doing you a disservice if he did not tell you. On the other hand he may not know. Urethane paints/primers use hardener, they will not cure properly without one. The primer in question should be a sandable surfacer, or primer surfacer, meaning you apply and sand, apply and sand, etc. You cannot expect to fill pits with one coat. For best results use an epoxy primer under the urethane primer, it will adhere to the surface better than a urethane primer and provide a good base. You don't sand epoxy primers. "Lacquer" primer surfacers are also available, they are sanded the same as urethane primers--they can sink into sanding scratches, etc later on, but they do not require hardener, if you do not have a supplied air system.

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BPNT

08-04-2005 21:39:19




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 Re: Reducer for Quality farm Fleet paint in reply to CNKS, 08-01-2005 10:41:30  
Sorry, but this is incorrect...Any disposable-type respirator rated for pesticides (eg. 3/m 07192, 07193, etc...)will adequately filter isocyanate-laden products such as catalysed primers). Use 2 part primers and topcoats for superior performance relative to the lacquer-type garbage available. Although fresh-air systems are preferred, they are not required. I can supply the government number to look for on disposable respirator packages that will adequately filter iso's if anyone is interested (I'll look at the, tomorrow at work).

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Rod (NH)

08-05-2005 09:46:19




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 Re: Reducer for Quality farm Fleet paint in reply to BPNT, 08-04-2005 21:39:19  
PPG's official corporate statement on isos is here. They would seem to dispute your unqualified use of the term "adequately". They also provide their recommendations for iso protection in all their MSDS for the iso-containing additives. In any event, I recommend all home shop painters read all available information from authoritative sources (there are many) and come to their own conclusions. Their health, their risk, their choice.

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CNKS

08-05-2005 08:32:48




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 Re: Reducer for Quality farm Fleet paint in reply to BPNT, 08-04-2005 21:39:19  
Yes, supply us with the numbers -- I will not dispute your knowledge if you work for PPG, BUT one problem with negative pressure respirators is they have to fit perfectly, else you breathe in fumes from around the mask, I have been there and have done that. A perfect fit is hard to obtain --Also, assuming you have a perfect seal, how do you know when to change the cartridges? they begin to degrade as soon as they are opened -- people have been around and around with this, on this and other forums. I simply do not believe that you are safe with a cartridge mask. I want to see an actual statement on the package, or the info that comes with them that says it will filter iso's. I have had the beginning effects of iso poisoning, it scared the H-- out of me. This occurred with very minimimal exposure, and probably was because I was sensitized to some of the herbicides you mentioned (years of exposure). I use a supplied air system and get absolutely no reaction to isos. I am sure you are more knowledgeable than me about paint booths -- a cartridge mask may be adequate for the bodyshop people who have downdraft paint booths, perhaps even a good cross flow, I don't know. Because a good exhaust system quickly pulls the stuff out. I don't believe OSHA requires supplied air systems, only that the booth be below a certain % of VOC's, I believe that number is 20%. Us amatures who paint in a fog do not have such booths, and no way to measure the VOC. Iso's can kill. I apologize for the harsh response, isos are one chemical that I am afraid of, if not afraid, then I am certainly aware of what they can do. The use of a cartridge mask is something that has to be based on fact, not merely an opinion such as what paint to use. Come to think of it, I believe I already have the numbers you are going supply -- all are qualified by "except isos".

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Rod (NH)

08-05-2005 09:29:32




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 Re: Reducer for Quality farm Fleet paint in reply to CNKS, 08-05-2005 08:32:48  
Agree. As usual, Len Stuart, proprietor at autobodystore.com, has some recent excellent commentary on the subject here and here. As always, anyone should read the fine print and the MSDS for what is recommended for safety provisions. Their choice, their risk. I won't bother repeating my usual links to authoritative sources on the matter. You already know them anyway :o). The OHSA rules are mind-numbing if a pro shop wants to avoid supplied air and remain in compliance. It's potentially possible but with great difficulty; approvals, fit testing, change schedules, documention, air sampling, medical exams/records and other record keeping, such as booth maintenance. Not at all realistic for anyone to try to apply to a home style operation - forget it.

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rustyj14

08-28-2005 19:40:49




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 Re: Reducer for Quality farm Fleet paint in reply to Rod (NH), 08-05-2005 09:29:32  
I sent that guy Len, a letter telling him about how the ISO's had ruined my breathing, from years of using hardeners. He as much as said i didn't know what i was talking about, i must have done something to get the condition i suffer when i go near a body shop that is spraying paint with ISO's in it, he says he has painted for many years, using only a charcoal filter mask, the things we hear about ISO's are not true, a whole litany of garbage he spewed in his reply to me! I told him i had Asthma-like attacks in my breathing, not asthma attacks! He took me to task, saying that hardener doesn't cause asthma! (I knew that!) (And, i didn't say that!) It seems he hasn't had any problem with hardeners (YET!) and will go on using a charcoal mask! All i can say is: Lots of luck, buddy! Go for it, Len, and later on in life, when you can't get yer breath, think back about how old Rusty Jones complained about ISO's ruining his breathing! BY: Rusty Jones (Rustyj)

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CNKS

08-01-2005 10:46:50




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 Re: Reducer for Quality farm Fleet paint in reply to CNKS, 08-01-2005 10:41:30  
Forgot to add--if the pits are deep, they can't be easily filled by primer, urethane or otherwise, best to use body filler over the epoxy.



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gary case

08-01-2005 10:59:17




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 Re: Reducer for Quality farm Fleet paint in reply to CNKS, 08-01-2005 10:46:50  
i used a sandable oil base primer on the tank. it's anti rust for iron and metal. should i or can i d a this and go with the epoxy or strip it or just move forward? thanx a heck of alot for the info. ps this will be a working tractor with curb appeal.



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CNKS

08-01-2005 17:10:15




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 Re: Reducer for Quality farm Fleet paint in reply to gary case, 08-01-2005 10:59:17  
More than one way to do it. My preference is to remove all rust and paint and use epoxy primer. Your rust type primer "may" not adhere properly on the areas that are not rusted. I'm not saying that it absolutely won't. I believe such rust products are best suited for bridges, not tractors. You can use some sort of a phosphoric acid conversion coating prior to priming but I prefer not to use such products. I will use rust inhibitors or protectors in areas where the residual rust simply can't be easily removed for one reason or another. Or, if I want to protect a fresh surface that I don't want to paint right away. One such product is Picklex 20. My preference is a rust-free surface to begin with.

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