Hi Tom,You guys are keeping me busy tonight :o). The problem I have with the spray can paints is that they are generally very runny as compared with a regular mixed enamel paint. To avoid runs and sags, you can only spray very light coats and unless you put on many such coats I think you lack the film build for a good protective coating...generally 2-4 mils (thousandths of an inch). I confess to never actually measuring the film build from a spray can job...it’s just a feeling I have. I could be proven wrong. They are commonly used for touch up purposes and some have even painted entire vehicles with them. The color match could be a problem too unless you can find a spray can dedicated to your exact color. They certainly would be of use for the small jobs you mention. It sure beats firing up a full size spray gun just for that stuff. That’s why I have a small, dedicated "touch-up" gun...good for a quick mix for small jobs like you mention. Don't take my dislike for spray can stuff too seriously. If you don't have a touch up gun, have the correct color and type of paint in a spray can and have only small pieces to do, by all means go for it. My own personal experience is with DuPont and PPG automotive enamels and urethanes. I have no particular experience with John Deere paint at all and I do not have access to technical information on it. As far as I know, most, if not all, of the "tractor enamels" are included in the broad category of Alkyd enamels that were popular for auto paints some 50 years ago. Just looking at the prices involved (half the price of an automotive acrylic) suggest that the technology of these enamels is not of the same quality as modern auto paints. That is not to suggest that they are "bad" in any way. They should produce as good a product as the OEM factory paint on your vintage tractor, as I suggested to Tim in my lengthy post to him yesterday morning below. And I suspect they would be better than the crappy factory paint on my ‘83 Chevy pickup :o), but that’s another story. My biggest recommendation to you is to follow the directions on the JD paint label. I cannot express that strongly enough. Use exactly whatever thinners/hardeners may be specified on the label. Ignoring label directions or mixing and matching different products from other manufacturers not indicated on the label is to be done at your own risk. You should consider installing a coalescing filter in the line for removal of water and oil aerosols as a precaution. I have one on the line from my IR lubricated compressor but I have neglected it and not changed the element in years. I haven’t had a problem yet, but if I did it would be my own damned fault! Some folks that make extensive use of air tools have auto lubricators in the air line. Such lines should obviously not be used for painting. If you are referring to my post to Tim about respirators, my mentioning non-lubricated compressors was solely about supplying air for breathing purposes, where filters are generally not considered positive enough because of the safety and health aspects of the use. Hope this helps. Rod
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