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Hi Van, Yes, you've asked too much :o). One could write a book trying to fully answer your question - and it would still be just another opinion. There are different options in materials, equipment, effort and cost. You will have to evaluate just how good a result you want to achieve and how much effort and money you want to spend to get it. Unfortunately, a "good job that will last" is very subjective - it depends on who's saying it. Rust pits are a real bear to deal with if your goal is to achieve an automotive quality finish. You can see how I dealt with some pitting on a tractor fender here. Personally, I would not go to that trouble on an implement such as a plow. My approach (and the result) would not be the same. Others will do it differently, but here's how I'd do a plow if it were mine (I should do my plows too but it's such a low priority, it likely will never get done): 1. Forget about pits altogether - save that effort for main tractor sheet metal as CNKS indicates..
2. Wire brush loose rust off.
3. Treat rust areas with a rust treatment similar to "Extend" by Loctite/Permatex.
4. Epoxy primer.
5. Acrylic urethane topcoat. If I didn't already have the safety equipment to spray acrylic urethane, I'd use an acrylic enamel w/o hardener or even a tractor dealer paint, by brush if necessary. Of course this approach will not result in a show finish but that would not be my intent in the first place. My advice is not to try and turn a plow into a Mercedes - you are likely to become frustrated and disappointed if you do. However, if you want to spend many, many hours on an implement to achieve diminishing returns but get bragging rights, well, the sky's the limit. As Tim says, fixing pits takes lots and lots of sanding, probably by hand on parts such as you are talking about.  Rod
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