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Epoxy Primers for idiots (that be me)?

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mace56

11-04-2005 15:27:06




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I am new to all this stuff. I ain't even perfected my rattle can technique yet but willing to try.

I see a lot of posts that talk about using epoxy primer to get a really good job. What are the brands? Is it typical auto paint supply stuff?


Is it used on all parts or just the sheet metal. The first part of my project (a 1951 Allis Model B)will be a lot of work on hubs and rims. Then to the main castings. For these rough pieces can I just brush the primer? The way it works I will be doing a lot of piece work as I assemble and disassemble (or vice versa).

Yea I think I will go will real Persian #1.

Do these paints have decent shelf life if you use it a bit at a time?

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Ken Combs

11-05-2005 10:26:08




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 Re: Epoxy Primers for idiots (that be me)? in reply to mace56, 11-04-2005 15:27:06  
The best epoxy I've found is also the cheapest, at least for me. Runs about $65 for a kit of 1 gal primer and one gallon catalyst. It is Kirker, I think they call it Enduroprime. Unlike most it is a 50-50 mix, primer and catalyst so mixing is no hassle. Once mixed it is usable for 2-6 hours depending on temperature. It can be brushed on cast parts, but might not look OK on sheet metal unless sprayed or sanded a lot. Oh, it does sand well after a couple of days of curing unlike other epoxies I've tried. I have had opened cans for months and they are still good.

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herb storrs

11-06-2005 06:21:11




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 Re: Epoxy Primers for idiots (that be me)? in reply to Ken Combs, 11-05-2005 10:26:08  
One might say "if you have to ask what an epoxy primer is, you probably shouldn't be using one."

Epoxy primers are a pain to use and expensive. They are also unbeatable for what they do. So if you are doing a full, down to the metal restoration, or a show finish, have a good gun and know how to use it, you'll want to use one. But if you are going to be dabbing on Tisco paint with a brush, or blasting the thing with rattle cans from Home Depot, epoxy primer is going to be overkill and a real pain to use and you would be better off using something like ZeroRust or POR15 which lets you do a little area at a time using just as much as it takes, withot always having to mix up a new batch, and throw away unused old stuff.

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mace56

11-06-2005 15:32:06




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 Re: Zeo Rust and POR15 in reply to herb storrs, 11-06-2005 06:21:11  
Of these two primers the Zero Rust stuff sounds a little more 'friendly' to painter. Is it as effective as the POR15, the later seems like pretty serious stuff that can have nasty side effects.

Should I still try to get the metal as clean as I can for best results?



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CNKS

11-06-2005 17:06:12




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 Re: Zeo Rust and POR15 in reply to mace56, 11-06-2005 15:32:06  
As I implied below, I do not use rust converters, but remove all rust mechanically and then use epoxy. More work, but the results are worth it. Others can have their own opinions as there is more than one way to do things. I simply don't take the easiest route.



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CNKS

11-06-2005 07:11:54




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 Re: Epoxy Primers for idiots (that be me)? in reply to herb storrs, 11-06-2005 06:21:11  
Epoxy primer is very easy to use--I do agree that it is better suited for a full-fledged paint job. Nothing to gain if you use rattle cans or a brush. The ONLY problem with epoxy is that it has to be covered by another primer or topcoated within the window -- usually a couple of days to a week. Otherwise it has to be scuffed and reapplied.



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mace56

11-06-2005 13:51:17




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 Re: Epoxy Primers in reply to CNKS, 11-06-2005 07:11:54  
I thoungt the epoxy primer was a more lasting layer that others. If I just use one of the more typical primers will I be disappointed on stuff like rims, step areas and foot pads that get a lot of abuse?



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CNKS

11-06-2005 17:01:25




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 Re: Epoxy Primers in reply to mace56, 11-06-2005 13:51:17  
Put your foot on painted metal, the paint will eventually come off, no matter what you use. IMO, epoxy adheres to the metal better than other primers and gives the next product, surfacer or topcoat, a better surface to adhere to. That does not mean you can expect not to scratch it, as paint is for looks and protection from the elements. On steps, etc you can use the black non-skid type of stuff that simply sticks on the surface (the name escapes me right now), or on a step, just let the paint wear off if you use it a lot. Otherwise "tread lightly". I haven't used POR 15 and have no desire to do so, since I start with metal that has had all rust removed. I do sometimes use rust preventatives such as Picklex 20 to prevent new rust from forming before I use the epoxy.

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