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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

POR ?

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ol' guy

11-27-2005 17:08:37

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I'm restoring the lights on a '49 "A" JD. A friend who restores old (1930's) cars tells me that the inside of the lights (mine are somewhat rusted) should be cleaned out as good as possible, and then treated with POR. I've never used it, but it supposedly deactivates the rust and prevents new rust from developing? Is this true, and have any of you experts ever used it? can you paint over it? Thanks for the help.

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ol' guy

11-29-2005 14:50:11

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Re: POR ? in reply to ol' guy, 11-27-2005 17:08:37

Thanks to all of you for the good info. Good answers breed more questions-- I'm still learning!

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Jason(ma)

11-28-2005 14:33:54

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Re: POR ? in reply to ol' guy, 11-27-2005 17:08:37

I agree with CNKS, I don't think por-15 is what you really want. A rust converter like what CNKS is talking about will do what you want. here is a link to the por-15 store, I'm gonna try their manifold paint for the muffler on my allis G.

por store

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ol' guy

11-29-2005 14:58:23

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Re: POR ? in reply to Jason(ma), 11-28-2005 14:33:54

Would you please suggest another converter than "Must for Rust"? The local home Depot has never heard of it, they did have a LOctite product (spray can) they "think" will work. Thanks.

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BobReeves

11-30-2005 07:50:25

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Re: POR ? in reply to ol' guy, 11-29-2005 14:58:23

Loctite use to call it "Extend" but has renamed it to something generic like Rust Cover??? Must have had a legal problem with the Extend name.

In any case it's available at most auto parts stores and works great. Comes in a spray can and have also seen it in bottles.

I have used it many times with good results. Remove as much of the rust as posible, wire brush sandpaper whatever. Clean it with a degreaser, I use a generic prepsol from the local auto paint store. If you use the spray, follow the directions on the can, light coats and keep shaking the can. Usually I follow it with Rustolium. Did the battery holder on my 71 Chevy pickup years ago and it still looks great.

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Stan(PA)

11-29-2005 17:09:06

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Re: POR ? in reply to ol' guy, 11-29-2005 14:58:23

Tractor Supply carries one called "Rust Buster", Wallyworld has one, I can"t remember the name, but it"s by the rattle can paint. Most places have some brand of "rust neutralizer", and they are all pretty much the same. .....Stan

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CNKS

11-28-2005 12:39:08

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Re: POR ? in reply to ol' guy, 11-27-2005 17:08:37

I haven't used POR 15. But for the rust you describe, clean it up as good as possible, get some Must for Rust from Home Depot for about $10. Give each light a couple of squirts, let it react according to the instructions, wipe off the excess, clean with wax and grease remover, prime and paint with whatever you are using. I don't think POR is needed for what you are doing.

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Charles Park

11-28-2005 12:12:17

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Re: POR ? in reply to ol' guy, 11-27-2005 17:08:37

Just to add a few cents. POR is a really good product. Really needs some rust to penetrate and seal.

It is an expensive product. Pour it from the container and dip your brush in that container or else you have contaminated the rest of the product. Anyhow if you top coat the POR you will be pleased.

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Stan(PA)

11-28-2005 07:04:05

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Re: POR ? in reply to ol' guy, 11-27-2005 17:08:37

I"m not sure if the POR is a rust "converter" or a rust "sealer". In any event, if you can"t remove all the rust, just get some rust converter stuff from most any farm or tractor supply type store. I"ve used the spray or brush on types of rust converters on some old horse drawn type implements for yard art. They were really rusty, and I just wire brushed them, applied the rust converter, and painted with rattle cans. They have been outside in the weather for 4 or 5 years now, and no signs of any rust popping through. These things were HEAVILY rusted when I started, and the wire brushing just took off the loose stuff. The entire surfaces were still rust, and the converter just turned the rust black. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to explain how bad these things were. .....Stan

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dr.sportster

11-28-2005 06:37:08

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Re: POR ? in reply to ol' guy, 11-27-2005 17:08:37

POr 15 is advertised that you dont have to remove the rust first.If you are sandblasting all the rust off the parts anyway then regular paint will suffice and you can save money on no POR 15.The POR does dry as hard as a rock and it is not uv protective.In this case I think all you need is the same gloss paint for the outside of the lights sprayed on the inside also.PoR is good for frame rust on a car or a bad battery box and not so much for a piece that you are blasting all the rust off to start.Just trying to help you save money because I dont think you need the POR for this.

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Lee Aanderud

11-28-2005 19:07:07

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Re: POR ? in reply to dr.sportster, 11-28-2005 06:37:08

I'm a firm believer in POR-15... having restored a '61 Studebaker Hawk and doing the inside of every body panel and complete suspension. It does turn a milky color when exposed to UV light so if it's an exposed part it does need to be topcoated. If left to dry, just scuff with a Scotchbrite pad. One tip on using it is to clean out a plastic oil bottle and pour the POR-15 into it. Squeeze the bottle until the POR-15 comes to the top and put the top on... air will create a seal on the top of the POR-15. A quart goes a long way, and I wouldn't buy it in any larger cans than quarts. It's also easier to use when in a plastic bottle. If you get it on your skin, it's damn near impossible to get off... I have good luck soaking in the shower and using your finger nail to scrape it off. Hope some of these POR-15 tips help. But I am a firm believer in it, all you need is to get the scaley rust off, it works great on sandblasted metal too... but on shiny metal, it'll peel off. I've purposely left new metal out in the rain to start the rusting process before using. Also it brushes on and you'd swear it was powder coated once dry.

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