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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Sandblaster CFM

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chuck130

11-29-2005 07:42:02

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I know, I know, the more the better. But I can't afford a 500,000 CFM compressor. Got my eye on a humble 17 CFM, 80 Gallon, 2 stage (good price). I know it will have limitations but will it be good enough to siphon blast small stuff off of my TEA 20? Also thinking of a small pressure pot so I can do the stuff too big for the cabinets, such as rims. Not concerned about how long it takes, as long as it's adequate. What do yo think?

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CNKS

11-29-2005 17:20:56

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Re: Sandblaster CFM in reply to chuck130, 11-29-2005 07:42:02

But, if it doesn't have a 100% duty cycle, you need to let it rest every 15? minutes or so. You will probably accomplish that when you refill your pot. 100 lbs of sand only lasts a few minutes.

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Rod (NH)

11-29-2005 14:27:14

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Re: Sandblaster CFM in reply to chuck130, 11-29-2005 07:42:02

Hi Chuck,

Sure it will. I use a 17 cfm compressor to blast stuff. I wouldn't want to tackle an entire tractor chassis at once with it but it works fine for individual pieces. Get the pressure pot. You'll like it much better than a siphon unit. A pressure pot will have a smaller nozzle size for the same amount of air consumption but the grit flow is increased and the speed is significantly greater. I estimate my pressure pot blaster is about 3 or 4 times faster than a siphon unit, using the same amount of air. The nozzle size on my pressure pot is 1/8" and my 17 cfm will just keep up with it by running continuously. I have even modified my blast cabinet slightly to permit using the pot blaster nozzle inside the cabinet. That is a more cumbersome arrangement with the much larger and heavier hose but the increase in speed is well worth it to me.

Rod

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chuck130

11-30-2005 05:59:12

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Re: Sandblaster CFM in reply to Rod (NH), 11-29-2005 14:27:14

Thanks for the tips. So I take it that you run your pressure pot into your cabinet? Never thought of that.

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Rod (NH)

11-30-2005 16:22:26

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Re: Sandblaster CFM in reply to chuck130, 11-30-2005 05:59:12

Yes, I do. You can see the installation by clicking on the thumbnails:

As I said, the heavier hose is bulky and more cumbersome to maneuver inside the cabinet but the extra speed is worth it. If the part is real small, I don't bother and will use the stock suction setup that came with the cabinet. Anything else and I think it's worth the small effort to run the pot hose through a hole that I cut in the cabinet access door. Depending on the size of your cabinet, such an arrangement might be too cumbersome to work well. If you can make it work however, the difference is like night and day.

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chuck130

12-01-2005 04:52:41

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Re: Sandblaster CFM in reply to Rod (NH), 11-30-2005 16:22:26

Thanks, Rod - very helpful. Leads to two more questions, though. Do you empty the cabinet back into the pot - must be a nuisance. Also, how necessary is the vacuum? Will a good shop-vac suffice? I have a Rigid with the best cartridge filter on it and I am amazed at how well it works - not even drywall dust gets through. Thanks.

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Rod (NH)

12-01-2005 16:17:26

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Re: Sandblaster CFM in reply to chuck130, 12-01-2005 04:52:41

I have only used my pot blaster inside the cabinet for the one tractor fender that you see in the photo. The buildup in the hopper has not been great enough to empty it yet. The hopper has a bottom "dump valve" on it. My plan is to eventually dump out the excess, see if it needs to be strained, and reuse it. I don't use actual silica sand. I use Black Beauty blast grit, a slag product that is low in free silica and is safer from a health perspective. It cuts better and lasts longer than sand but is also more expensive, so reuse is desirable. I wouldn't find it a nuisance to do this. I don't use the cabinet that much and the hopper is fairly large - so emptying is not something that needs frequent attention. The faster speed makes this a non-issue, at least for me. I would think a decent shop-vac would do the job well enough. The vacuum you see in the picture came with the cabinet as a package deal. The innards are interesting. It doesn't use a cartridge inside. Instead, it uses a filter bag arrangement that is self-cleaning and will last indefinitely until leakage occurs. What's interesting is the self cleaning aspect of it. It's a weighted bag where the bottom gets raised up (bag is turned inside out, if you will) when the vacuum is running (vacuum is applied inside the bag) and the weight drops it down when the vacuum shuts off. I think this is to shake off accumulations of dust on the bag surface. In this case, the captured dust is on the exterior of the bag and not the interior. The recommendation from TP Tools, the cabinet manufacturer, was to direct the vacuum exhaust directly to the outside unless an optional secondary bag-type "final filter" was used on the discharge. It was not convenient for me to do that, so I got the optional final filter. I think that is a safety precaution because the instructions say there is not supposed to be any accumulation of dust in the final filter. If there is, it's an indication that the internal filter is leaking and needs replacement. The final filter is the blue bag you see on the vacuum exhaust port. There is no visable discharge of any dust from the unit when the cabinet is in operation.

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