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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Sandblasting / Wire Brushing

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JKC

11-29-2005 18:44:29




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I have read a great deal on sandblasting a tractor in preparation for a new paint job. I have read about NOT sandblasting the entire tractor, due to sand entry into the places you don't want it. What I am not clear on is this: If you have the tractor torn-down completely, including having the cylinders out and crankcase open, can you THEN sandblast the outside of that portion of the tractor, rinsing the whole thing with something like diesel fuel when finished to get the sand out? Same goes for the rear-end..... If you have all rear end components out and the case open, can you THEN sandblast the exterior of the case? IF NOT, is wire brushing the exterior cast parts of the tractor the recommended practice? I look forward to any help you can offer. Thank you.

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Rod (NH)

11-29-2005 20:03:28




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 Re: Sandblasting / Wire Brushing in reply to JKC, 11-29-2005 18:44:29  
Hi JKC,

Sandblasting is the best prep for both castings and sheet steel. The problem with sandblasting assembled cast housings like gear cases and engine blocks is the risk of getting grit into the interior despite one's best effort at blocking up all possible paths. I can assure you (by past experience) that grit will get in places you never thought it could.

However, when cast housings are completely disassembled and all the internals, seals, bearings, etc removed, you can visually observe the interior cavities and clean any grit out before it causes a problem. I suggest some type of solvent cleaning of the interior to remove oily films prior to blasting the outside simply to make it easier to clean out any grit afterwards. A dry interior makes it much easier to use compressed air to blow out small cavities and passages that are not readily visable - I'm thinking of cylinder heads here. As long as you can assure yourself there is no grit remaining anywhere in the interior areas, you should be fine to reassemble and paint. If it were mine, I'd also block the openings and apply at least one coat of epoxy primer to the exterior as a preservative during the time it takes for assembly. If assembly takes long enough to extend outside the recoat window of the epoxy, simply scuff with a Scotch-Brite hand pad, apply another coat of epoxy and topcoat within the window. The assembly process will likely get numerous fingerprints and possibly an oily residue on the exterior so a thorough cleaning with something like PPG's DX330 prior to any further epoxy or topcoat would be advisable.

third party image Rod

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