Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Tractor Pulling Discussion Forum

help with m

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
bob

09-14-2003 17:02:22




Report to Moderator

I have a super m the I rebuit the motor stock bore and stroke. I have the hitch as high and short as allowd and 15.5-38 long bar short bar. with 75% tread when . when i pull the front end comes up a little at the end but then I spin out
if i pull in 3rd I dont have enough power in 2nd to much any Ideas ?




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
ChadS

09-15-2003 09:17:12




Report to Moderator
 Re: help with m in reply to bob, 09-14-2003 17:02:22  
Hi, It sounds like you need to work with weight placement. You need to be able to pick up and carry the front end during a pull. Depending on what weight class you pull in, you may need to go heavier to balance the tractor. You may change your tire pressure, I have run between 10-15psi depending on the track. I pull with a set of long bar short bar 15.5X38, Armstrongs. I like this tire alot, Tractor always seems to hook up well with them, I run about 12-13psi in them all the time. I have always said, and just my opinon, that in order to properly set up a tractor to pull on the track, you have to look at the basics first. Track condition, tire pressure, and weight placement. It takes a certain amount of hp, a certain amount of properly placed weights, balance, to make a tractor pull farther. Also. you need to look at the engine. A stock, unaltered, farm and field tractor, is just that, a work horse. A pulling tractor needs to be enhanced to change the way the engine runs down the track. You need to change the governor, A stock governor is only set for field work, It is slow, and does not give the carb the neesisary throttle responce that you need. An aftermarket governor spring will work wonders. What I am saying is, the faster the governor works, the throttle responce will change the way the tractor pulls. You need to make the governor and carb work together. Make it so you can go over the recommended rpm rules, the set the rpms back down to where you are allowed. By doing this, you are speeding up throttle responce, due to the stiffer spring. Then, you need to rework the carb, give it more fuel/air. I belive what is happening to your tractor, even though I have never seen it pull, Is that it is in the engines power curve to soon. As the engine lugs down, it produces more power and torque. If it lugs down too far, it will spin the tires off every time. So, what need to be done is change the power curve. "lugging power" A stock carb will not do the job, It is designed for fuel economy for field work, You could get 5-9hp more just by redesigning the carb. A properly tuned carb will change the power curve dramaticly, In some cases I have seen a 5-9hp increase at 540 pto rpm, and a 15-25hp increase at 1300engine rpm. On a Farmall tractor. I hope I made some sence here, I may be rambling a bit, Hope this helps ChadS

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
ChadS

09-15-2003 18:27:21




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: help with m in reply to redcub, 09-15-2003 17:50:14  
Hi, Yes, I did. I have been working with IH/Farmall for over 15 years. I have my own dyno, and a lot of free time to test and refine parts. It depends on the motor. In order to make an engine perform to it's full potential, you must find the right combination of Ignition timing, and fuel delivery. Stock carbs are hiding power. I have seen too many pullers spend thousands of dollars on stroker engines, head work, 5.00 a gallon racing fuel, and do absolutely nothing to the carb. By using the dyno to set up a carb is the best way to tune an engine. I rework tthe metering stem and main jet in the base of the carb, You don't have to remove the whole carb from the tractor, just the base. Venturi..... ... Sometimes, you will have to change the venturi in the carb, big cubes need big carbs, is true to a certain extent, Usually I use a bigger venturi when the compression is above 180lbs, anything below that, stock parts work the best and just needs the fuel opened up to it. IH made several venturis' for the SH-806 gas engines. I belive there was 6or7 different sizes available. SH being the smallest size, the 806 being the largest size. Ther may be other sizes out there that I have not seen, or aware of. If you like I would send you an email on how to modify the carb. Just my 2 cents worth, ChadS

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
ATHYRIO

09-16-2003 12:18:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Re: help with m in reply to ChadS, 09-15-2003 18:27:21  
Details, Details, Details. Instead to telling us how great you are, tell the details. What size venturi does this guy need. How big does he need to dill the jets out to. What else does he need to do.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Chads

09-16-2003 15:34:58




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: help with m in reply to ATHYRIO, 09-16-2003 12:18:49  
Ok, it depends. no showboating, just facts. I have to sort of a phsycic here but here goes.

Remove the carb bowl, disassemble the bowl, Main jet adjustment screw, and the metering stem. The metering stem is located in the center of the bowl. It is brass, use a 3/8 deep well socket and a flat tip screwdriver to remove the stem. Next, you need to drill out the bottom 2 holes in the stem. The size of the drill bit is .110. for the stem. Make sure you get out all the shavings from the stem. Next you need to drill out the main jet. use a slightly larger drill bit than the one you used fore the stem, .125 will do sufficently. BE CAREFULL when you drill the main jet, it is a shallow hole and you could break off the bit by hitting the side of the metering stem hole. That will give a stock SM plenty of fuel. Dependig on the compression pressure, A SM-450 venturi will work just fine, It somewhere around 7/8 to 15/16 when you measure the bore. When you bigger than that, with a stock engine, it will make good power, but it loses peak power when you lug it past the 540 pto rpm. Unless you are running 170psi or more, then you need a bigger venturi, to properly get the air fuel mixture correct, Look at the plugs, if you do not have access to the dyno. You will have to be able to work the engine pretty hard, then immediatly shut it down and check the plug color, it should be a coco brown color. Aftre reassembling the carb, You are able to set the fuel setting, the same way the owners manual expains it. OR, open up the throttle all the way, and back out the main jet screw. It should smoke, or create a rich condition, just turn the screw in until it smooths out, but, is not too lean. That is pretty much it for carbs, Then you need to look at the governor spring, that is the only part in the governor that actually changes the throttle responce, You need to be able to go past the recommended rpm rule you club allows and then back the rpms down, instead of using a stock spring, which does not have much spring tension in the first place, You could go to the hardware and get a stiffer spring. the spring needs to be 3/4dia. by 2-7/16 long, and .105 wire thickness. that is the exact measurements of the M-450 governor springs I offer for sale.

Ignition timing.....
anywhere from 24-28degress advance, where ever the engine seems to make the most power, stock settings do not work. In most cases you advance the distributor while the engine is running, until it labors or drops about 100 rpm, then back it off until you split the difference or, goes up 50 rpm. It does not take much, but it is worth about 2-4 more hp more hp over stock specs. what I just explained, is the procedure I use when I dyno tune an engine. some results may vary due to compression pressure, fuel quality, and possibly worn parts. Any questions??? Feel free to ask me. Chads

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Ted

09-16-2003 10:49:44




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Re: help with m in reply to ChadS, 09-15-2003 18:27:21  
Where can you get different venturis'? I tried my local IH dealer and had no luck. I have also tried some of the sites that advertise here.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy