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power block

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bm3501466

02-13-2006 17:21:28

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I have been told that a power block will not fit in a 39 B, but they can be made to fit. What do I do?

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one armed bandit

02-14-2006 15:14:24

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Re: power block in reply to bm3501466, 02-13-2006 17:21:28

not true, a 5-1 will bolt right on a 39 B. They use a 39 main case when they do an unstyled one otherwise one of the stud holes ends up out in the open on the right side of the case.

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2 Cylinder

02-14-2006 07:39:00

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Re: power block in reply to bm3501466, 02-13-2006 17:21:28

I believe there is a powerblock to fit every year John Deere B produced, you just have to get the right number. A number-1 is probably what a 39 B John Deere would need. Talk to Schooler he specializes in John Deere pulling parts, he could tell you for sure. (660) 748-4475

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WTW

02-14-2006 09:33:08

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Re: power block in reply to 2 Cylinder, 02-14-2006 07:39:00

There was a total of two B Power-blocks ever made. The 5-1 and 5-2. The 5-1 as described below was "intended" for the 41--46 model tractors. They can be used in older models but it takes a little switching around of parts to make it happen. Saying there was a Power-block "made" for every year of model B produced is not a true statement. Just wanted to clarifiy, DW

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WTW

02-14-2006 07:36:39

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Re: power block in reply to bm3501466, 02-13-2006 17:21:28

There are three different (five inch bore) Power-blocks made that were marketed by TSC. The first two were for the model B's and the third was for the model 50. The model 50 block was marked 5-3 and had a different bolt pattern where it bolted up to case and also had one more stud in the head bolt pattern. Not the block to use for the B's unless you like to modify a lot. The two B blocks were marked 5-1 and 5-2. The 5-1 and 5-2 B blocks both share the same bolt pattern where they bolt to case as well as head bolt pattern. the 5-1 was intended for the 1941 through 1946 model tractors. The 5-2 was intended for the 1947 through 1952 model tractors. The difference between the two were the water manifold bolt patterns / shape and the 5-1 had the bottom and sides milled and bolt holes drilled and taped in it to bolt the frame rails to it. Both the B Power-blocks will bolt in the 39/40 model tractors. The 5-1 will bolt in with out any modification. The 5-2 will also bolt in but there will be no bolt holes in bottom or side of block to bolt frame rails to. You can drill and tap the 5-2 block at the bottom to bolt frame rail to it. Bolts in side of frame rails will have to be left out on the 5-2 due to lack of material on the side of the 5-2 block. Both blocks will require the later cylinder heads because the 39/40 model tractor head has a different bolt pattern than the later heads. Either one will work in your 39 model tractor the biggest challenge is to find A Power-block. DW

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Drew

02-14-2006 17:55:47

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Power Block related question in reply to WTW, 02-14-2006 07:36:39

WTW, I have a power block question.....

Have you ever heard of anyone putting a repair sleeve in any of the "A" power blocks and still run a 6.125ish bore? I have a 6-2 with a possibly cracked sleeve that I think I can fix if there is a sleeve avaliable to press in there. Turning down the OD is not a problem if I can butcher some sleeve up and make it work.

Thanks!!

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Drew

02-15-2006 05:06:03

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Re: Power Block related question in reply to Drew, 02-14-2006 17:55:47

To be a little more clear, its not like this sleeve is busted all to pieces, the tractor does run, it is just seeping a little water into one cylinder, and when I bored the block it had some funny looking spots in one bore that kinda looked like cracks then, and I really think they may be now. I want a sleeve to go inside the original sleeve.

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ChadS

02-16-2006 08:27:43

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Re: Power Block related question in reply to Drew, 02-15-2006 05:06:03

I had a #3 Power block that had the lower part of the sleeve busted a chip out. Found that block in a local farm consignment sale,, Dennis Polk himself said Merry Christmas when I got it for 50 bucks. One piston was in it. Do you think that would fit in a Late 620? Anyways,, We got this 70 gassser sitting in the shop now, that we had bored, and sleeved to 6-1/8th, at .200 wall thickness on the sleeve wall. The shop dont want to finish the work, they have never put sleeves in a block like that. The 70 block we have cracked from the outisde in, and got thin at 6-1/8th. So we got these sleeves from a local machine shop,, these things were darn near 20 inches long, .200 thick and 6-1/8th bore to start with. Maybe someone with a CNC lathe can cut a replica of the A power block sleeve out of one of a sleeve like this,, They do press out of there dont they? That #3 I got,, looks like it a the bottom of the block,,, looks like a pressed in sleeve. Anyways,, the sleeves we found, were right at $225 for the pair. CHadS

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Phil Foutz

02-16-2006 11:47:39

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Re: Power Block related question in reply to ChadS, 02-16-2006 08:27:43

This is a power block that has been work on. Between the arrows is where it was cut out so the sleeves could be press out. The shop made a plate with tabs that could be moved out and put in the cut area so the sleeves could be press out. A boring bar machine? was used to do the cutting. A 1/4" ring was then put in the area that was cut out when it was put back together with sealer between them.
The reason I had mine out was to replace the o-rings around the sleeves.
It was leaking water in the cylinder.
The guy said if he would do it again it would be $1500. to do it, that was 4 years a

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Phil Foutz

02-16-2006 11:55:46

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Re: Power Block related question in reply to Phil Foutz, 02-16-2006 11:47:39

This is what one looks like with out the sleeves.
I dont have any pictures of the sleeve out of the block.

Phil
Chad disregard the email I sent you earlier. These are the photos I was going to send you.

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Drew

02-16-2006 10:46:25

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Re: Power Block related question in reply to ChadS, 02-16-2006 08:27:43

Well, I have a CNC lathe and a sleeve out of a 6-1 block to design a new sleeve from, but I think I'm going fix this thing the easy way instead by shoveing repair sleeves in both holes and go back to 6.000" and make a new set of pistons (I can stand to lose some compression anyway). It pretty much boils down to I dont want to have to to screw with trying to get the old sleeve out.

You may be able to make the 6-3 fit the 620, but I think you may have to move some bolt holes in the main case to make it work. I have never tried it, but I dont think it will bolt right in. You will have to use an "A"/"60" head though.

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ChadS

02-28-2006 20:24:07

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Re: Power Block related question in reply to Drew, 02-16-2006 10:46:25

Drew, can a Stock JD block be bored out like the power blocks? I can see the block deck having enough meat to hold a sleeve, You could build a ring to fit the OD of the sleeve, to fit any kind of block adaptation. I got a set of 25 inch sleeves, 6-1/8th bore, and its .225 thick,, I bet they would make a good sleeve to start with. We ended up with .090 over on the 620. thats where it cleaned up at. Chad

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WTW

02-15-2006 07:47:21

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Re: Power Block related question in reply to Drew, 02-15-2006 05:06:03

I have heard of people resleeving the inside of the old original sleeve and ending up with a stock bore (6"). To do this and planning on ending up with a 6.125 will not work because there is just not enough material in original sleeve to make it happen. In most cases the original sleeve is removed and repair sleeve material is used to end up with a larger bore 6.125-6.250. To find a sleeve to alter to copy the original sleeve and end up with the original 6" bore will be difficult and expensive. A good sleeve to use and have a lot of integrity in it when done is a Caterpillar sleeve out of a D8 (6.25 ID). Only problem is these sleeves will cost around $200.00 a piece. Plenty of material to work with but makes an expensive Power-block pretty fast. DW

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