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Questions for WTW

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alby15

11-04-2007 15:07:19

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What would I have to do to mount a 3010 or 20 rear in my 4010? I am runninning a crower clutch so I have to keep the 4020 style input shaft.
What weight loss can I expect? How much HP would you be safe with? I know anything can happen.
Is there a weight difference in a 466 in a 4840 as opposed to other model 466"s?
I have this tractor stripped pretty well and it is at 6200 with a 220 lb driver.
Oh how much trans oil do I need if I foam the rear?

A friend has a 4320 and want"s to mount an A pump on tghe original 404 what does he need to do?

Thanks al

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ChadS

11-05-2007 08:08:39

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Re: Questions for WTW in reply to alby15, 11-04-2007 15:07:19

Just seems to to do it in the number 2 cyl area. When the valves were done, had all new ones put in, and the seats Id say were match ground to the new valve. I think I see where your going with that,, if one cyls valves set deeper int the head, might drop cyl pressure a few pounds?? Seems to drip out hot or cold though,, Oil consumption,,, nothing out the ehxuast, idles smooth, (but does sound retarded) labored a little,, (has a 48 inch 3 inch straight pipe for a exhaust) runs out great! What should a cyl pressure test look like at cranking speed with all the injectors out?? 24 volt system still. Also, the cable kill switch/ overide knob on the throttle lever conversion,,, the breather tube gets in the way of the lever,,and can block it shutting down,,, was a 3020 tube any different?? or is it a bend and dent fit? Ill double check what the pump timing is set at,,, maybe recheck the injectors if the cyl pressures check out.. Cold cyl,,,, yeah, pretty accurate description!! Wish I could check the temps comming out each port,,, Behave now! Chad

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ChadS

11-05-2007 05:34:28

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Re: Questions for WTW in reply to alby15, 11-04-2007 15:07:19

DW, May I email you? I have some questions about a 3010 diesil. Dad fixedup a barn find 3010 this summer,, was in a barn for 20+ years,,, wasnt stuck, head was bad, took the inj pump in, with the injectors had em rebuilt. It runs well, starts pretty good,, bout 53 hp. This 3010 had the late model inj pump with the adjustable advance, (or what ever its called) was sen on 3020s from what I hear,, does have a 3020 piston kit in it,, but, it throws oil out the #2 exhaust port,,, a black thin oily residue that runs down the side of the block,,, did not do this before the pump was rebuilt,, but kinda suspect that the rings lost thier stretch and losing seal. Dont have blow by,,,,, ,, cyl head, pump and injectors were rebuilt, pump was turned up a little,, we was thinking the 3010 with a 3020 kit should be up close to the 60's in HP,,,, Is she sick??? Dad, yeas ao, when he was my age,,, had a later 3020 syncro,,, he fsrmed with it, and he pulled it in deadweight,,, had to sel it in the 80's due to bad banking deals with farmers back then,,, broke his heart, for I remember they day they came and picked it up.. So, fast forward to June 07,,, he spots this ol 3010,,, narrow front, had duals, 3pt, sheet metal was rusty, but it was super straight,,,, had fenders,,, surpized,, when we put in new batteries, the lights still worked!!! Took it all apart, new clutch, radiator, new wiring harness, paint, anything and everything to get it back to new condition. So far, it looks great! And I have to admit, its a nice driving tractor,,, (I actually got to use it for a day or two a week or so ago) Cant belive he let me take it out for a spell actually,,,,, ,,,,, ,,,,, ,,,,, ,,,,, third party image

HAHA!! Any info would be great! I got alot of pictures of the restoration if you and the boys wanna see a nice 3010! Even redid a 70 JD this year,,, lots of work done to that ol 70,,, no, no limited slip in it,,, LOL! Rules,,,, also got a black dash 620,,,, serial is a very late 1958,,,,, , so alot of JD's have been getting alot of work done here,,, as a IH guy helping out,,, But was born on a deere,,,,, ,,,,, Funny huh??? The pictures I wanna show ya actually are of a 730 gasser,,,, Cant wait to talk at ya! email is ChadS3@hotmail.com ChadS

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WTW

11-05-2007 06:58:17

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Re: Questions for WTW in reply to ChadS, 11-05-2007 05:34:28

Chad, The black oil you are seeing is probably not oil but actually raw un-burnt fuel. You probably have several things that could be contributing to this. First the 3010 originally did not have a timing advance, this advance on your pump is an update which is normal. When the advance has been added to a 3010 the static timing is different when you time/install injection pump on engine. The original pump timing for a 3010 was 10 degrees BTDC you will now time it 4 or 5 degrees BTDC. Recheck your timing. The second contributor is: If pump has been turned up expect to see this if you let tractor idle for long periods of time. The last thing to check to help this manor is make sure engine is running at a normal operating temperature as a cold running engine will not burn clean and worse yet a cold over fueled engine. One cylinder is probably a little lower on compression than the others and may show more slobbering than the others but most likely if timing and temperature is correct and you work the tractor good it will clean up. I say this knowing that your injectors are good and compression has to be decent or it would not start very easy. If it starts good I really doubt your problem is compression and would bet timing and temperature will fix it. If the black is engine oil you would be seeing large oil consumption from crankcase. Does it use oil? A perfectly normally fueled diesel will slobber if idled for long periods and be worse yet if a thermostat is stuck open as engine never reaches normal operating temperature. Check these things out and see if you can clean it up. If you do have one cold or low compression cylinder the first question I would then ask you was the valve recession on head kept in spec when cylinder head/valve work was performed? That is a commonly over looked possibility. Good Luck. DW

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WTW

11-04-2007 19:55:30

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Re: Questions for WTW in reply to alby15, 11-04-2007 15:07:19

al, The 3010/20 rear end clutch housing will bolt right up to the 4010 engine or any 404 or 466 engine. The clutch shaft from the 3010/20 rear end to crower clutch will have to be custom made. A 3010 is a lighter/lessor transmission than a 3020 rear-end. It won't take a real good 466 to eat up a 3020 rear end as I busted my 4030 rear-end three different times with a 414 running 2750 RPM. The 4030 rear end is nothing more than a 3020 with a Perma clutch. The biggest thing heavier on the 4840 466 will be the original 4840 oil pan. The block may be some heavier but not any big amount. To mount an inline "A" series pump on an original 4320 front timing cover will require machine work and custom adapters. Would be allot easier and economical just to bolt in a later 404 or 466 as it will fit right in a 4320 without any major alteration. I have a good 466 block for sale if you are looking for one. Have Fun! DW

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algar

11-05-2007 15:42:24

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Re: Questions for WTW in reply to WTW, 11-04-2007 19:55:30

Thanks for the info guess I"ll just trim more blubber off this one.Running on gas with an nat gas 55 series head. tryin to get more rpm at around 5k now

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