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Piston Sleeves??

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AWB

10-20-2002 20:18:44




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How are sleeves installed in an engine? What is a dry sleeve? What is a wet sleeve? Thanks, AWB.




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Dennis Benson

10-20-2002 21:01:15




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 Re: Piston Sleeves?? in reply to AWB, 10-20-2002 20:18:44  
Wet sleeves have coolant in direct contact with them, and have seals around the base to keep coolant from seeping into the oil. Dry sleeves are installed into a cylinder and do not come into contact with the coolant. Some engines are designed for dry sleved like the older Detroit Diesels, while dry sleeves can be used as a repair for cylinders that are damaged or worn beyond the maximum oversize.

Wet sleeves are installed by removing the old sleeves and any O rings from the block at the bottom of the cylinder, sanding the block around the base where the O rings seal, installing the O rings, and sliding the sleeves into place.

Dry sleeves, if they are replacements, have to have the original sleeves driven out, which requires a special tool to drive with and a large sledge hammer, then drive the sleeve out, and drive the new sleeve in. If the cylinder has been damaged, like from a loose wrist pin, a crack, or even during a standard boring job, it has been found that the cylinder wall was too thin from a shifted casting core, and the boring bar bores through the wall, the cylinder will have to be bored for a new sleeve. The new sleeve will be driven into place with a large sledge hammer, and a driving tool, the top of the sleeve will have to be cut off to just above the level of the deck, and the deck will need to be resurfaced, then the cylinder will be bored and honed so that it matches the other cylinders.

Dennis Benson

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Jerry B

10-21-2002 08:22:59




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 Re: Re: Piston Sleeves?? in reply to Dennis Benson, 10-20-2002 21:01:15  
Actually if you drive a dry sleeve with a "large sledge hammer" you are asking for distorted cylinder walls.

The proper way to install dry sleeves is wash them and remove all oils, dirt, and cosmoline. Dry completely. Warp in a towel and place in a deep freezer for atleast 12 hours. 24 is better. If I know what day I am going to install the sleeves I put them in the freezer a few days before hand.

Place a heat lamp or atleast a 100 watt bulb, into the clean, dry cylinder bore in the block. This will heat the bore and expand it slightly. Leave the bulb there for atleast an hour. You can use more bulbs and heat more cylinders at a time. Makes a faster job of it if you have them. I have used a heat gun very carefully and this speeds the process up consideribley.

Remove the sleeves from the freezer only as you need them. Leave the rest until you actually need them. Unwrap the sleeve just before insertion into the bore. Do not touch it with your bare hands as this will cause the sleeve to start expanding.

If all goes well, the sleeve should drop into the bore and require only a few light taps from a block of wood to seat it fully.

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MADDOG

12-03-2002 09:56:55




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 Re: Re: Re: Piston Sleeves?? in reply to Jerry B, 10-21-2002 08:22:59  
That's good advice, Dennis. I rebuild (turbocharged) piston aircraft engines. The individual air-cooled cylinders operate under EXTREME cylinder head temps and pressures. The
cylinder HEADS are machined out of aluminum billet, but the cylinder BARRELS (same as liners,etc) are steel and top-threaded at the factory, the heads
are heated (very carefully) in temp-controlled ovens and the barrels are cooled in temp-controlled freezers. After they are "screwed" together, they are allowed to reach room-temperature. This type
of a joint is called a "swedged fit". Under "normal" operation; these joints WILL NOT
open. This SAME principle applies to replacing
piston sleeves.

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Dennis Benson

10-21-2002 11:43:50




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 Re: Re: Re: Piston Sleeves?? in reply to Jerry B, 10-21-2002 08:22:59  
Installing the sleeves like that makes a lot more sense. I never installed the dry sleeves, I only saw the shop foreman installing them his work area was next to my work area. I disassembled, degreased, and sandblasted everything that came in the shop. I also refaced valves, installed ring gears, resurfaced flywheels and heads on a surface grinder that looked like a table with a circular hole in the center of the table about 18 inches in diameter with a grinding stone in the center of the table, the stone was raised and lowered with a wheel turned with my foot. I would help out with valve guide and seat grinding and replacement as well as crack repair and heli coils. I only installed wet sleeves myself on my own tractors. My unofficial job was to go over to the other guy's bench and lean on the vise and tell jokes.

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