|
You did not mention how many gallons capacity, or specific dimensions of your tank, so I am having to guess at some of the requirements. Suggestions:
1) Remove the tank, empty and flush it with water and determine the full extent of any rust or other damage. Get a quote from a competent repair shop to restore the tank properly. (See suggestions below.) If that is not viable, then you will have to replace the tank. An experienced tractor mechanic or auto mechanic may have ideas for other vehicles that may supply a tank that might fit. Get accurate dimensions of not only length, height and width, but also filler neck position and length, tank strap anchorages, etc. Also determine maximum allowable dimensions of a replacement tank. Make a sketch that can be faxed or mailed to parts sources, etc. You could even post it on the YT website. Some salvage yards will make the effort to find something that at least meets the dimensions.
2) Custom tanks can be made by many competent welding shops IF they know how to properly bend and/or weld thin sheet metal, especially filler neck junctions. A custom tank can use thicker steel than the soft terneplate stamping steel typically used on commercial fuel tanks. These tanks tend to be relatively expensive, but at least they should fit. It also never hurts to find out if there is a source of New Old Stock replacement fuel tanks. They are hard enough to find for classic cars, cannot imagine how tough it is for old tractors and self-propelled implements. You might even check out tanks for hydraulic fluid at Northern Tool's website.
3) A (normally) much cheaper route than custom tanks, is to find an automotive gas tank that is similar size, in a salvage yard. Keep in mind that it will have to be kept in the same orientation in the tractor as it was in the automobile or pickup. Hopefully it can be pressure tested with water and/or air to prove it will not leak, before you pull it from the vehicle. Old tanks from vehicles that have sat for a long time tend to rust out. Beware of any tanks with significant dents or rust on them, they will likely be worse on the inside. Many modern front wheel drive cars have tanks that fit under the rear seat. These are wide and flat, usually with long filler necks. 92 and later Ford Crown Victorias have an oblong tank that fits over the axle. Older sedans and many older pickups have wide flat tanks that fit aft of the rear axle. Most modern pickups and SUV's have long narrow tanks that fit between the frame rail and the driveshaft. Some of the compact trucks, especially Toyotas, have small tanks mounted to the frame crossmembers. One of the best sources of clean, relatively small inexpensive tanks are the trunk-mounted tanks found in late 70's Japanese cars like the Toyota Corolla or Nissan B210. These tend to be less corroded and they are small enough to fit into many tractors. It may be possible to re-align filler necks with cutting and welding, or judicious bending. Just make sure you pressure test. The filler caps need replacement due to old age because the rubber seals eventually fail.
4) Make sure you get all the correct hardware with the tank, such as straps, sender unit, cap, etc. Emissions system connections may have to be capped off. Diesel tanks tend to have different venting and caps than gasoline tanks. 5) I have seen "custom" tanks costing hundreds of dollars, where they forgot to have an effective venting cap and the vehicle would not run because of vacuum buildup in the fuel system. 6) Some vehicles have plastic gas tanks. These avoid the rust problems, just make sure they are not damaged by UV rays from sunlight. These are also not good if they need to be in a relatively high temperature environment near the engine, etc. 7) Avoid welding fuel tanks! If that is unavoidable, and absolutely, positively required, here is the dangerous drill. Empty the tank completely into a proper container, in an environment utterly free of ignition sources, static electricity, smoking, etc. This can be extremely difficult with some tanks. Avoid siphoning gas by sucking on a hose, lots of folks have died doing that. Flush tank with water repeatedly, dry it out with compressed air. A slow steam of low-pressure compressed air can be let into the tank through the filler neck, plus a fan blowing past the tank to disperse vapor, should avoid problems. Depending on where the repair is to be made, water can be left in the tank as close as possible to the steel repair zone. It is far better to take it to a pro that does fuel tank repair on a regular basis. The thin steel terneplate may require brazing or torch welding with a patch panel rather than normal arc welding to provide a proper repair. Proper flux is essential, especially since the tank interior is not accessible. Many radiator shops can do gas tank repair. Also check with outfits that sell performance parts, do race car fabrication, etc. This is not a place for amateurs to practice. Make sure you use proper size fuel hoses and clamps. An adapter may be required to match up with fuel lines connecting to the fuel pump, etc. One source of fuel tanks is an outfit called Fuel Safe. They make excellent, very expensive bladder-lined tanks for race cars, etc. That is NOT what you need,however they probably know some sources they can direct you to for commercially built fuel tanks for applications similar to yours. You might also check out JC Whitney, Summit, or similar auto supply sources. There is also the old standby small beer keg. Good luck.
|
