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HELP! Engine rebuild from He#%!!!!

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Pat

09-22-2003 16:31:09




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Maybe some of you read an article here on YT about...well...the engine rebuild from he#%! As it states:

"With a nightmare engine, you may have tolerances set "by the book" on the ring gap, the mains and rod bearings, but every time you torque the bolts, you have to use a 4 foot pipe wrench on the crank pulley to turn it over".

Well..I have just this problem. It seems my 49 Cub (that I just found out has a '51 engine) doesn't want to go back together properly!!! I did everything by the book, but as the article above says, I have to use a 4 foot pipe on the crank pulley to get it to turn. What can I do? I had the engine "fixed" at a machine shop (my poor empty wallet is the proof) and don't know if this is my fault or something that went wrong at the shop!

ANY help at all that ANYBODY could offer sure would be appreciated!!!!! !!!!! !!!!! !!!!!

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Dave S. (OH)

09-27-2003 14:32:45




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 Re: HELP! Engine rebuild from He#%!!!! in reply to Pat, 09-22-2003 16:31:09  
You will definatley have to take it back down. Generally this happens when someone takes it apart thinking that all the bearing caps are interchangeable from one journal to another. They are not. They will bolt up but chances are the hole wont be exactly ligned up. If this is the case and you cant figure out which cap goes to which journal, you can take the block to a machine shop and have it line bored. You might be able to take the crank out and bolt the bearing caps back in place. Run your finger between where the cap and block meet. If you can feel any kind of lip at all, then its not right.

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Jerry B

09-23-2003 06:08:15




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 Re: HELP! Engine rebuild from He#%!!!! in reply to Pat, 09-22-2003 16:31:09  
Had the same thing happen on my Oliver 70. Turns out the crank is bent about .020 in the center. I should have known soething was wrong when I sent it off to be ground. I had checked it with a mic and determined that .020 undersize on both rods and mains would clean it up just fine. When it came back it was .030 on the rods and .040 on the mains.

It would not turn it after setting the torque on the main bolts. Removing the main caps allowed it to turn but it had a tight spot in it. Set up a dial indicator and rotated the crank and watched the dial vary .010 on both directions on both ends.

Sent it back and the shop said "There is nothing wrong with it."

Reinstalled the crank and the same thing. Time for a second opion. Different machine shop broke the news to me: "bent in the middle."

Cub cranks are flimsy to start with and I am betting yours has warped. Have it check at a DIFFERENT machine shop.

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Dick L

09-22-2003 18:25:41




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 Re: HELP! Engine rebuild from He#%!!!! in reply to Pat, 09-22-2003 16:31:09  
What Bob said is right on. The only way to know is to strip the engine back to the crankshaft. Use assembly lube or STP on the bearings. Torque one bearing at a time and turn it over by hand.
I pulled an old engine down for the crankshaft. I checked it out real good for being out of round. every one was withing .0005, mains rods everything was a go without sending it out for grind. Put all back togather paying attention to every detail.(right) Would not turn over. I went back and rechecked rods and mains with plastigage and every one was to spec. Losened up the rod caps and it would turn. I tightened one at a time and it turned easy untill I tightened number 1 rod. It had the correct clearance. I then turned the crank as far as I could and still get the cap off and check for clearance. No clearance. Somehow in finding the crank in such good condition I missed checking number 1 rod. It was out of round by .007. Yours would not use shims but this was an Allis engine that did and when shimed for the .002 clearance with the crank down at the bottom it was clamping on the sides.
Had to pull the crank and have it ground. I have never put an engine back togather without checking by turning the crank after each bearing being torqued

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Bob Whitmoyer

09-22-2003 16:52:18




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 Re: HELP! Engine rebuild from He#%!!!! in reply to Pat, 09-22-2003 16:31:09  
Hi

Real hard to tell without being there but!
#1. Find out what too tight..take the rod bearings loose (enough to rattle by hand). Still
tight, start with the mains, one at a time until the thing turns easily by hand...#2 Still can't turn it easily, take out the rods and pistons and go back to the mains..got the idea...some things from past experience.. Mains cap on backward... two shells in one bearing cap...Bent crank (bad news) let us know what you find
Bob Whitmoyer

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