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Restoration & Repair Tips Board

Farmall H bolster bushings removal

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Dick in Fallon

03-26-2004 08:27:34




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TDK or anyone out there have ideas on removing the bolster bushings, upper and lower on narrow front end???? Appreciate ANY ideas, thanks




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Ol Chief

03-30-2004 21:12:37




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 Re: Farmall H bolster bushings removal in reply to Dick in Fallon, 03-26-2004 08:27:34  
Thanks for the compliments.I you assure you fellows that heating the bushings will drop them out.The one thing I failed to mention in the cooling process is ,do not attempt to rush the process and add water .If you do you will assuredly crack anything that is cast iron.If on the other hand you are working with steel it is not as dangerous but in any event slow cooling is best to prevent imbritlement and or distortion. As a passing suggestion, on the way back with your new bushings, don't sweat trying to force them in.Get a little dry ice at your grocery store or local ice cream plant. Soak the the new bushings in the dry ice and just drop in place.Just have a way to stop them in the proper position so they do not fall all the way thru.Also be careful handling cause the stuff I am talking about is way below Zero.If dry ice is not available use ice to cool but also then warm the bolster to cause a small amount of expansion.In either case work fast and I am sure you will be pleased with the results. I went it sea on merchant ships for many years and often had to make use of temperature differances to accomplish some of the knotty jobs encountered. Situations such as removing large 30 or 40 ton propellors from a tapered tailshaft which required freezing the shaft and heating the propellor. Anyway enough rambling sorry for the long post. Good luck. Ol Chief

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TDK

03-26-2004 22:00:11




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 Re: Farmall H bolster bushings removal in reply to Dick in Fallon, 03-26-2004 08:27:34  
Unless you have correct size bushing drivers or access to a lathe to turn your own, this is what has worked for me. Use a fine hacksaw blade or a reciprocating saw & cut a slot all the way across on inside surface of bushing. Cut almost through. Using a screwdriver drive it between bushing & housing at the slot you cut. Pry bushing until it collapses or breaks. If it breaks it should slide right out. If it collapses & won't push out easily, It can be driven out or cut in two with a chisel. You can cut all the way through with saw, won't hurt anything.The large one at bottom will be more easily removed if it is cut in two. If after removing bushing there's any damage to bushing surface in housing, use a round file and sandpaper to smooth scratchs,gouges,etc. Won't hurt a thing!Hope I've explained this in an understandable way. Someone may even have a better idea!

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Dick in Fallon

03-28-2004 18:46:08




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 Re: Re: Farmall H bolster bushings removal in reply to TDK, 03-26-2004 22:00:11  
Hey TDK and 01 Chief, Many thanks for the responses and it is MUCH appreciated. I'm going to try the torch method and see what happens( I love the heat wrench) and it may backfire on me some day, but now that I know someone has done it, what the heck. TDK, I've been hoping you would respond and want to thank the both of you very much, wish I could meet the two of you someday, will keep you posted on results and again, Thanks much, Dick
PS Only 175% to go, aren't I the lucky one?? Maybe I'll finish before my 75th BD!!!!

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Ol chief

03-28-2004 17:14:49




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 Re: Re: Farmall H bolster bushings removal in reply to TDK, 03-26-2004 22:00:11  
There is a method that I have often used with success but it requires a heat source.If you have an oxy-acet outfit,fit up a large tip and heat the bushings to red heat as rapidly as you can.I say this because you will not want to go slowly and wind up having excessive heat on the casting.Let the whole assembly cool naturally to ambient temp.At that point you should be able to pick the bushings out with your fingers. The bushing will swell and then shrink when cool so long as the surrounding housing is at a lower temperature.This works nearly every time and can be applied to remove broken pipe nipples cut off boiler tubes or broken studs or bolts after a hole has been drilled all the way thru. You may also accomplish this job using a storage battery or welding machine and a good size carbon rod but it takes a lot more skill and nerve.Ground the base metal and then apply the carbon stick to the bush.From there on the same principle applies. The torch works better because you will have more control and will need less nerve. Good luck

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TDK

03-28-2004 19:45:49




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 Re: Re: Re: Farmall H bolster bushings removal in reply to Ol chief , 03-28-2004 17:14:49  
When I rebuilt my M, I didn't have a torch. But I do now and i'll try "ole chiefs" method next time.So far I haven't ran into anything that the heat- wrench wouldn't free up!



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