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Restoration & Repair Tips Board

How do you break in a rebuilt engine?

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CathySD

09-08-2004 06:04:11




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My husband just got done rebuilding our 1800 Oliver Desiel, has the Wakesha(sp) engine. I've been reading, and there seems to be some conflicting opinions on the best way to break the engine in and get the rings to seat properly. Should we hook the tractor up to something like a plow and work the snot out of it? Or do something less strenous? With all the money and time we've put into this old girl, we want to do this right.

Thanks
Cathy

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Oldfarmboy Jim

09-13-2004 01:29:35




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 Re: How do you break in a rebuilt engine? in reply to CathySD, 09-08-2004 06:04:11  
Where does your hubby get those fifteen hour days from? All my days seem to have twenty-four hours. Could it be that you are so much closer to the Arctic Circle?



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txblu

09-08-2004 10:32:20




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 Re: How do you break in a rebuilt engine? in reply to CathySD, 09-08-2004 06:04:11  
Let's get to basics. You just put a lot of parts together that haven't shared each other before. Ha.

When you put new metal onto new metal, even though you add some oil to slickum things up, there is friction. Friction manifests it'self as heat. The heat is the problem with a new engine.

You want to "wearin" the new surfaces but don't want to have a metallic meltdown in the process.

So basically, you work it to get stress on the metallic interface, and rest it to let it cool. Then repeat for the first few hours. Change the oil and filter, and you ought to be there.

The engine temp is sorta a gauge, but it is measuring coolant temp, not combustion chamber temp. So I wouldn't run it up to the red before I backed off and let it rest (remove the load but keep it running, or let it idle for a few minutes after a runup).

I've never had an engine that was a problem to break-in. I'd get it running, checking everything, getting valves adjusted and things like that, then run it up to half throttle, and hold it for a few seconds, and back to idle. Do that a few times and run it up to 3/4 rpm and hold for a few seconds, and back off. And after about about a half hour of that (watching the coolant temp) I run to full rpm's for a few seconds. Do that a few times.

Then I just go about my business, but keep a light load on it for another hour, keeping an eye on temp. Then, with a load, run her up a few times and consider it done.

If you don't break it in properly 2 things will happen.

1. As mentioned yesterday, you will have a Chernoble; piston/ring metal will deposit on cylinder walls, like in liquid form.

2. The other side is not enough work and the rings don't seat. Problem with that is not "Ivan the Terrible", just means performance may be off a tad and it may burn a tad of oil. Sooner or later they will seat.

Good luck,

Mark

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CathySD

09-09-2004 09:04:38




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 Thanks for your help! in reply to txblu, 09-08-2004 10:32:20  
I'll pass the info on to my husband. He's been working 15 hr days, so he hasn't had a chance to do anything with the tractor since he got it running over the weekend. He might do all the work on it, but we both know that the tractor actually belongs to me. I'm a real farmer's daughter, and my hubby is lucky city kid ( he thinks so - got a wife who thinks big outdoor toys are really neat!)
Cathy

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txblu

09-09-2004 10:02:39




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 Re: Thanks for your help! in reply to CathySD, 09-09-2004 09:04:38  
Well good for you lady. I too have been lucky (excity slicker) as my excity slicker wife of 42 years is having (has had for the past 25 yrs) a blast in the country. Sometimes I kid her about hanging it up and moving back to town..... ...her response is ..... ..... ..on your own sucker. Ha.

Good luck,

Mark

(Make him keep it clean and shiny for you ...like I'm sure you keep the house for him) Grin.

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JDB1951restore

09-09-2004 10:35:46




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 Re: Thanks for your help! in reply to txblu, 09-09-2004 10:02:39  
Let your husband know he"s a lucky man to have a wife"s that"s into tractors!(Got any sisters?)



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