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Operating Temp of Farmall M

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Bob4knee

10-18-2004 13:54:32




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Hello,

I bought this in the Spring, and am pretty new to tractors. (I"ve worked on lots of old stuff, but not tractors specifically)

The previous owner had installed an aftermarket temp gauge, which never moved off of the low peg (130 F) all summer. I never did any hard work w/ it, used the loader bucket to haul mulch and dirt, but the head never got too hot to the touch. I assumed a kink in the sensor lead he had coiled up under the hood.

I dumped the muddy fluid out, flushed it, and refilled w/ nice green coolant and distilled water yesterday. As I was playing around, and letting it warm up between water flushes, I verified that:

1 The sensor lead was not kinkked,
2 The sensor does climb when it gets warm,
3. The water was only getting up to 100 degrees F or so.

Water seemed to flow almost instantly, and the radiator warmed up as the head did.

So:

Is this too cool? Am I missing a thermostat, or is it stuck open (I now have nice clean coolant and other projects to work on, so would rather not open it up and check if this is "normal").


If it"s not normal, what temp (and size, is it bigger around than a car thermostat?) thermostat do I want. I got this tractor mainly to push snow with, and I"m in South Dakota, so I want reliable cold weather use.

What temp is too hot? (In case this is "normal" and I block air to the radiator to warm it up some, what should I shoot for)

Thanks,


Bob

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wdTom

10-20-2004 17:41:55




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 Re: Operating Temp of Farmall M in reply to Bob4knee, 10-18-2004 13:54:32  
I don't think there is any reason not to have an engine running at 180 to 200 degrees. They will run better, be more fuel efficient, build up less sludge and condensation, and last longer. Especially in the winter you want to keep it warm to cut down on sludge and condensation.



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Bob M

10-19-2004 09:43:44




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 Re: Operating Temp of Farmall M in reply to Bob4knee, 10-18-2004 13:54:32  
Bob - Your M does is supposed to have a thermostat. It’s located inside the casting on top of the water pump where the upper radiator hose connects. Yours either has either failed in the open position, or it was removed at some point earlier in the tractor’s life.

Your tractor will run better, will burn less fuel and the accumulation of condensation/sludge in the engine will be minimized if the thermostat is working. A replacement IHC thermostat is about $20. However I’ve discovered the Auto Zone #800-180 ($4) fits and works fine.

Incidentally if you are running your tractor in very cold weather, a “winter front” to cover about 95% of the grille opening helps speed warmup and maintain proper engine temp. (Reason - There’s a bypass opening around the t’stat - it flows enough coolant that in very cold weather the engine will never fully warm up.) A winterfront doesn’t need to be fancy - an old poly feed bag wrapped over the grille and secured with a couple of bungees works fine.

Don’t worry about overheating the engine in cold weather. It’ll let you know (will begin steaming, spitting antifreeze etc.) long before you can cause any damage.

Happy snow pushing!

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Joe A.

11-12-2004 12:54:28




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 Re: Operating Temp of Farmall M in reply to Bob M, 10-19-2004 09:43:44  
Hey Bob, do you know what Auto Zone number thermostat will fit a Farmall H? I am putting one back together and will need a new t'stat. Thanks.



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bob4knee

10-19-2004 14:17:18




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 Re: Operating Temp of Farmall M in reply to Bob M, 10-19-2004 09:43:44  

I"ve got a Carquest, a Sturdevants, and a NAPA place in town here. Can you give me some more info on that thermostat? I guess I could figure out how big it is once I open it up. What temp should I open at?

Thanks,


Bob



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Bob M

10-19-2004 19:20:22




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 Re: Operating Temp of Farmall M in reply to bob4knee, 10-19-2004 14:17:18  
Bob - Don"t know what Carquest, etc number the AutoZone #800-180 crosses too - or even what engine(s) it is supposed to fit. However all that really matters is the outside diameter of the t"stat flange. Match that to the old one (or to the counterbore in the housing it fits into if yours is MIA...) and you"ll be good to go. (Incidentally the OEM t"stat is HUGE - it stands about 3" tall. There"s PLENTY of room in the t"stat housing for the cheaper retrofit!)

FWIW the AutoZone # is a 180 deg thermostat. I have "em in both of my Farmalls. I"ve found the tractors run better - especially in cold weather - than with the lower temperature t"stats.

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bob4knee

10-19-2004 21:05:05




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 Re: Operating Temp of Farmall M in reply to Bob M, 10-19-2004 19:20:22  
Thanks all. I'll open her up again and put a T-stat in. I didn't explain the problem very well, I did measure the water temp with another gauge, and it was only getting to 100 (hence the gauge that started at 130 never moved). I also danced a flame over the sender for the guage, and it jiggled, so it responds.


First I've got to get a broken fitting off so that I can repair and pressurize the loader hydraulics to lift the bucket and put the tractor back in the shed. (I know how to do that, I'm just not looking forward to it).

Thanks again for all the help,


Bob 4knee

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CNKS

10-19-2004 17:29:32




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 Re: Operating Temp of Farmall M in reply to bob4knee, 10-19-2004 14:17:18  
135 nonpressurized, 165 pressurized as noted below.



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CNKS

10-18-2004 17:46:10




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 Re: Operating Temp of Farmall M in reply to Bob4knee, 10-18-2004 13:54:32  
It takes them a long time to warm up, probably because they were designed for heavy loads. Pull a disk or plow in the summer and I guarantee you 200 degrees or more. They are not like cars that reach "operating temperature" in a few minutes. None of the H's and M's get much past the lower end of the gauge under light load conditions. In snow conditions, my gauge barely moves. The early models were not pressurized and came with a thermostat that opens at 130 degrees. The pressurized ones open at 165 degrees. You could have a thermostat that is stuck open. Also your temperature gauge might not be working. Otherwise, I really don't think there is anything wrong.

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pat s

10-18-2004 17:34:28




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 Re: Operating Temp of Farmall M in reply to Bob4knee, 10-18-2004 13:54:32  
Temp should be about like a car engine. A lot of older tractors did not have termostats. some used shutters in front of the radiator which had to be manually open and closed. If you have a thermostat, it should be mounted in the water outlet on top of the block where the top hose connects. If you don't you may have to block off part of the radiator this winter with a piece of cardboard.



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