Farmall M which winter oil and bypassed Thermostat

Thanks for the help earlier with the T-stat. I pulled it out this weekend, it was indeed stuck open. I'm not having luck finding the cheap one around here, so I'll probably end up getting the IH unit (for exactly what you all told me it would cost --you guys are good)

I do have another question. My owners manual shows a petcock on the Left hand side of the engine block for draining the coolant. Mine has been replaced with a fitting, and from there some 5/8 inch heater hose runs up to above the thermostat (in the path for the bypass around the thermostat). Maybe somebody had a coolant heater on it at some point? It seems that this is another path around my thermostat (and the bypass is already huge). Should I block this off, or just replace the T-stat and see what happens (it's alot easier to block it off now, when I've got half the coolant out and it's not freezing out--I'd rather do it now than have to drain it all over myself in the cold). I guess I could plumb in a petcock and try it both ways?

Thanks again for the earlier help--I guess I should change the oil once I get it running warm enough, the seller probably ran it all of last winter with water temps below 130. The oil doesn't look too bad.

What oil do folks normally use in these? We're in Eastern South Dakota, might want to start it at 20 below (might need to, won't want to). It's probably closer to 10 degrees either side of 0 when I'd use it the most. I was gonna go with 10W40, unless I get some better suggestions. Would 5W30 hold up if it's never getting above 180? MIght make for easier starting?

Thanks again,

Bob

As for crankcase oil 5W-30 is probably the best choice for your situation. It’ll crank faster in the cold than 10W-40. And 5W-30 will hold up just fine at high temperature. (FWIW the mfr recommends 5W-30 year round in my wife’s Chevy Impala...)

Trying to decide on a plug, or a 2 inch nipple and cap for the drain hole in the block (so that draining coolant will not just run down the block, but shoot out and I can pretend to try to catch it).

I'm guessing I don't want brass for that one, since I'd probably mangle it up getting it back out? I've got galvanized, and can get plain steel.

I was going to use teflon tape, would an anti-sieze be better? I've got the stuff I use on lug nuts and spark-plugs in aluminum heads (man, I like working on something that's all iron!). I guess I'll give that a shot.

Thanks for all the help. I'm going to go to the IH dealer tomorrow and get the T-stat gasket and an oil filter element. Should have the Autozone #800-180 you recommended by tomorrow night also, so I can put it back together, warm it up, and change the oil over the weekend.

I just posted a question (a lot of questions actually) on tire chains for this beast to the general forum. Feel free to chime in!

Thanks again, you've been a big help.

bob

Did you get some answers on your tire chain questions? ...Bob M

Thanks also for the thermostat recommendation. Turns out there is an Autozone in Sioux Falls, and my wife will be down there on Friday anyway. I was ready to settle for the 165 degree/$20 IH one, but it looks like I can have a 180 degree one by this weekend.

Do you get your oil-filter elements from IH, or is there a Wix or Pur number that I can pick up at the NAPA place?

Thanks for all the help,

Bob

Incidentally Baldwin (and probably the other filter mfr's) have an online cross reference. Simply enter the IHC element part number and it returns the Baldwin equivalant.

• Baldwin cross reference