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FORD 8-N generator not charging

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Geo. Banas

10-02-2005 11:38:07

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How can I isolate the problem on my Ford 8-N tractor with original 6 volt system. The charge is not getting to the battery. Thanking anyone in advance, Geo

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Dan

10-04-2005 13:24:53

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Re: FORD 8-N generator not charging in reply to Geo. Banas, 10-02-2005 11:38:07

Look REAL good at your regulator. The terminals should be marked "ARM", "FLD", and "BAT". On an 8N tractor, short the "BAT" and "ARM" terminals together with a piece of wire or something - there will be a spark, that is ok. Do this with the key on, but the engine NOT running, and only need a few short sparks. This will polorize your generator and get it to genning. Measure the voltage at the battery with the engine not running. Start the tractor up and see if the voltage is higher at the battery with the engine now running. If it is, you are good to go. If it is not, ground the "FLD" terminal (this can be at the regulator or the generator lug) to a good frame source and take the measurement again. If the voltage jumps up, your generator is fine and you need to replace the regulator. If the voltage stays the same, it is time to rebuild the generator.

BTW - Do not run for any extended length of time with the "FLD" terminal grounded.

Good luck,
Dan

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John T

10-05-2005 20:10:42

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Re: FORD 8-N generator not charging in reply to Dan, 10-04-2005 13:24:53

Dan, Im pretty good at most tractor electrical BUT NOT A FORD MAN. Can you tell me or verify if the Ford 8 or 9 N's used Class A charging systems or Class B????? ????? I ask cuz what you described above is for the Class A..... yet I recall some Fords used the Class B ???? On the Class B one would "full field" the Gen (BAT on VR over to Fld) instead of ground it as done on the more typical Class A systems to by pass test the Voltage Regulators Field control relays.

Any help appreciated

Thanks,

John T, retired electrical engineer

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Dan

10-06-2005 07:49:03

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Re: FORD 8-N generator not charging in reply to John T, 10-05-2005 20:10:42

John - Good question! The 9N and 2N tractors used a cut off switch. The 8N tractors used a voltage regulator and is a TYPE A electrical circuit. The NAA tractors and above (after the 8Ns) has a TYPE B electrical circuit. The proceedure I described above is correct for an 8N tractor. For an NAA or later, you would short the "BAT" and the "FLD" leads to polorize the generator.

You DO NOT want to confuse the type of system you have - or you will be buying a new expensive voltage regulator (don't ask me how I know this...)

Thanks for posting this to make sure everyone is clear on the differences.

Dan

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John T

10-06-2005 10:14:20

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Re: FORD 8-N generator not charging in reply to Dan, 10-06-2005 07:49:03

Thanks a bunch Dan. I posted a similar question to Dell over on another board, as I didnt know which Fords were Class A and which were Class B as I thought SOME??? Fords used the B system. I give electrical seminars at many of the National John Deere Shows and used to write electrical articles for Green Magazine BUT DONT KNOW THEM DERN FORDS LOL.

While I have your attention, I may as well ask you the same question I asked Dell on the other board concerning the 9 N with the single (ARM) terminal Generators, it was..... .....

1) Based on your post above, its my guess that one terminal 9 N Generator uses an internally case grounded Field winding (one of its ends) while its (other end) ungrounded Field terminal is powered up off the third brush. Of course, the closer its adjusted to the armature brush the more field curent and the more the Gen puts out.

IS THAT CORRECT ????? ????? ?

Thanks again, John T

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Dan

10-06-2005 10:48:42

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Re: FORD 8-N generator not charging in reply to John T, 10-06-2005 10:14:20

I am far from an engineer, but have studied this question quite a bit as my first tractor (a 1948 8N) had an old 9N generator and cut off switch when I got it. I discovered quickly the wiring didn't match up to the new voltage regulator I bought for it...

You are exactly correct about the one wire early 9N generator. It had an manual adjusting screw on the back so you could move the internal brush closer/further to the magnetic field to increase/decrease the output. The cut off switch was the "saftey net", but if you forgot to turn the power down after say turning it up to use the lights at night, you would start to boil your battery. A very common problem. Another problem with this design is, the magnetic field would "warp" as RPMs increased and threw the charging rate off even more. This is a big reason why Ford went to the two brush/voltage regulator setup on the later models.

Jim Cox, an old resident tractor generator guru, used to have a great website up for old Ford tractor generator info, but unfortunately I discovered the website is no longer around.

HTH,
Dan

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