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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

tankless water heater

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bo

03-02-2004 04:47:45




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Got a tankless water heater for the barn. 9KW...the heater has a wiring block with a red wire, a black wire and a green, ground pig tail secured to the case. I have #8 wire with a red, black and white. The way I see it the incoming power red to unit red, the incoming black to unit black and the white to ground green. I seem to remember that the 220v wire, the red and black complete their one circuit whereas in 110 black is power and white is nuetral. That about it? Something about phases.

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david - OR

03-02-2004 07:16:12




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 Re: tankless water heater in reply to bo, 03-02-2004 04:47:45  
Depending on the type of wire, you are marginal in your wire size. A water heater is considered a "continuous load" and needs conductors sized to 125 percent of the nameplate rating. At 9Kw, this comes out to 47 amps. 8AWG is OK only for 75 degree (C) rated wire and 75 degree rated terminations (the screws on the water heater and the circuit breaker). UF wire is NOT usually 75 degree rated.

You need two "hot" wires and one equipment grounding conductor. The hot wires can be any color except bare, green, or white. These will attach to the power connections on the water heater and (one each) to the two screws on your two-pole circuit breaker, through which they will, in turn, be connected to L1 and L2 from the power company, thereby delivering 240 volts to your water heater.

The equipment grounding conductor will connect to the grounding terminal on the water heater and the grounding bar within the service entrance panel or subpanel. The equipment grounding conductor must be green or bare. It is a code violation to use the white wire as an equipment grounding conductor. At 8AWG, you do not have the option of coloring the white wire green or stripping the insulation off to "turn it in" to a ground wire.

If you are connecting to the subpanel, you need to understand the difference between ground and neutral. They are NOT the same.

On the other hand, service entrance panels normally have the ground, neutral, and grounding electrodes conductors all bonded together (this is the one place they are allowed or required to be tied togther).

Your completed water heater circuit SHOULD NOT have, or be connected to, a neutral wire. The white wire within your cable should not be used.

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bo

03-02-2004 08:20:45




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 Re: Re: tankless water heater in reply to david - OR, 03-02-2004 07:16:12  
Excellent explanation, I appreciate it.



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bo

03-02-2004 08:27:00




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 Re: Re: Re: tankless water heater in reply to bo, 03-02-2004 08:20:45  
The wire is 3 conductor, red, black, white...either 6 or 8g..I need to check. It was hooked to a 50 fuse and fed an electric range/stove...I replace the electric with a gas stove and have enough wire to run from a secondary panel in the barn to where the heater will be located...30' or so. Exactly what kind of wire it is, I don't know.



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david - OR

03-02-2004 15:42:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: tankless water heater in reply to bo, 03-02-2004 08:27:00  
6 AWG conductors would have adequate ampacity. 8 AWG is iffy.

Electric ranges with 3 prong connectors typically used type SE cable. One wire was used as both neutral and ground. This does not meet current code for new installations, but is grandfathered in for existing wiring.

If none of the conductors in your cable are bare or green, you cannot meet code for this application with the wire that you have. If you don't care about meeting code, you can connect the white wire to the ground bar in the sub panel and to the frame of the water heater. Paint the wire green (or strip it back) at each end.

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bo

03-02-2004 16:24:23




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: tankless water heater in reply to david - OR, 03-02-2004 15:42:40  
Check. I did look into code with a licensed electrician here and he saw no reason that I couldn't use that wire so long as I painted or taped that white green. Really appreciate your easy to understand explanation.



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