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small pole bldg advice needed

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graygander

09-23-2005 07:24:09




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hello,
I am getting ready to start putting up a pole building to use as a garage. It's gonna be 24'x32'x12' tall.For the walls I am planning on using treated 4x4s spaced 8' apart(well cross braced) set 2 1/2' below grade in concrete. I thought about 6x6s but there just to big for me to set and plumb by myself.(due to a very small budget I can only afford to hire help with setting roof trusses and pouring the floor) What I need to know is will the 4x4s make sturdy enough walls? I am using 1x10 hemlock and pine sheathing from a local mill for the exterior and can run it diagonally for more strength if need be. Any advice will be appreciated?

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paul

09-25-2005 12:14:47




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
Holes not deep enough. Where you at, frost is 4' deep 'here', need to be that deep. Pole construction requires pole to be set deep for support.

Don't like wood _in_ concrete here as it rots the wood off, unless you just mean a doughnut at the bottom.

4x4 - which is really 3.5 x 3.5 of poor ringed wood these days - is not near strong enough for a 12 foot sidewall.

--->Paul



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Pilot

09-24-2005 17:39:43




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
Call some local pole building contractors & inquire about hiring them to build for you. See what they would do. Explain that you are on a tight budget. You will get some good info & you might find it would be better to hire the job out.

FWIW, my 36 X 36' pole barn was built with 8X8's, sunk into 4' deep holes about 3 ft. in diameter with concrete. Metal siding. Eaves are 10', I wish they were 12. Contractor left it with dirt floor. I shopped around for a concrete contractor and bids from about a dozen contractors ranged from $2,600 to $5,700. Selected the second lowest contractor based on reputation & they did a great job. Location is western Oregon, so we weren't building for a hurricane.

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Cliff Neubauer

09-24-2005 06:22:33




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
If you are going to pour a full cement floor why not just build a stud frame building using 2x4s on 16 or 14" centers? By using studs on top of the cement floor you won't have to worry about them rotting off and it would probably be faster to build. I'd be leary of using 4x4s for posts, laminating three 24s or 2x6s would be alot stronger and you can sandwhich the truss between the two outside boards at the top for a very strong joint.

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Leland

09-23-2005 22:55:48




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
Why not buy used telaphone poles they are treated and they can be spaced up to 10' apart and they last for ever better than 4x4's



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MarkB_MI

09-23-2005 18:25:21




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
Much of what I'll say is a repeat, but I think it's worth repeating.

First, 4x4s are too light for a building of that size, particularly with 12' sidewalls. Your posts not only have to handle wind load (shear), they also carry the entire weight of the building (compression). 6x6s might be overkill, but 4x6s will be about twice as stiff as 4x4s. 4x6s only about 50% more than 4x4s, so they're a lot easier to handle.

I like the idea of making your own laminated posts. The big advantage of laminated posts is that they are straighter than solid posts. Even on my 10' sidewalls, several of the posts were so crooked and twisted that I had to notch them so my girts would be reasonably straight.

As others have said, your posts need go below the frost line. Also, they need to be on (not IN) a concrete pad. The pads need to be at least six inches thick and a foot in diameter, more if they're in soft ground. When you backfill the holes, start with a few inches of gravel to ensure drainage around the post.

Call in all your favors, get some buddies to help you with the posts, trusses and concrete. Of course you'll have to return the favor for all of their buildings, but that's how it goes.

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graygander

09-23-2005 18:08:45




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
Thanks for the replies. I guess I should have given more info about where I'm located. I'm up on a hill about 2000' elevation in southern WV. no hurricanes or tornados,we do get some wind not over 50mph gusts, As for 2 1/2 ' depth I was going down 3' and pouring 6" of concrete to place post on top of(hard to dig over 3' here without hitting rock) I will find out if I can get 4x6s in 16' lengths-Lowes & 84 lumber only stock 12' I originaly wanted to laminate 3 2x6s together for posts but was told that since they changed the way lumber is treated there is no 2" lumber rated for ground contact only 4 & 6". I really would like something stronger than 4x4s. We are lucky here that the only concern the county has about farm structures and garages is that we get a permit so they can tax us more. They very seldom inspect anything other than houses or apartments. Thanks again I will take everyones advice into consideration...Mike

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buckva

09-23-2005 17:38:09




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  

From what you have given. this is what I would do. First the 4x4 is fine but make better use of them. Pick the elevation of your finished floor first and then sink short post down as far as you like but with no concrete and on 4' centers. Tops of these post will be the width of the 4x4 lower than your finished floor elevation. Now rim the tops of these post with 4x4's which will bring you up to your finished floor. This would be a good time to pour your concrete floor as you have nice , easy to screed forms. Now sheet the walls with the hemlock (very good choice) vertically board and batten style. Left to weather naturally this makes a very beautiful building. for the top perimeter rim joist/header use a 2x6 from the mill like your hemlock. this header will be held up by the board and batten boards completely around the building. Talkin about strong walls. When you have completed the walls put one diagonal in each corner and a center stiffner all nailed to the board and batten. Each one of the mill 1x10 is about equal to a 4x4 in area.I would have no concern with using the mill lumber to fab. the trusses also. good luck with your project.

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Lou

09-23-2005 12:45:21




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
Have you considered using sona tubes ( those paper tubes ) below grade ( 4 ft around here )filled with concrete, and a metal bracket to hold the post.Unless you have well drained soil your wood will rot quicker than you think.



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JT

09-23-2005 12:06:28




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
If it were mine and I was gonn ahve 12' above ground, I would have at least 4 foot in the ground without concrete. Wood set in concrete will rot off, in dirt will not. Put up a 4X4 clothsline post 5 years ago, in concrete, it fell over when I clpped it with the mower deck, was rotted off at the concrete.



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JMS/MN

09-23-2005 11:48:26




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
First- is there a local code for you to adhere to? Second- do the math::You have 12 foot walls, with posts going 2 1/2 feet below grade, means you will buy 4x4x16foot, cut them off. Refigure using 2x4 studs, 24 inches OC, with plate and sill..... how does that come out? 4x4 on 8 foot centers sounds light to me- our pole sheds were always 5x6 poles, 8 foot centers, or round 8-10 inch poles in the 60s- still standing.

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evilboweviel

09-23-2005 11:25:59




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
where you located at??
Ron



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broker farmer

09-23-2005 09:50:04




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
4x4's on 8' centers seems a little weak to me. I'd at least place them on four ft. centers. Also, I would not pour concrete around the posts. At least if you do, place the post in the hole first and try to make sure that concrete does not form a tight base under the post. I prefer to pour concrete columns and place heavy plate steel in the concrete and then bolt my posts to the plates. Even treated wood poured in concrete tends to rot off right at the top because the water cannot escape. Another alternative would be to set the treated post about 3-4 ft deep and forget the concrete. I recently tore down an old hog building where we had used 4x4 posts. ALL of the posts that had been poured in concrete were rotten right at the top of the concrete. Some of the posts had just been set in the ground. They looked as good 22 years later as the day we put them in. Just my 2 cents worth.

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Mike M

09-23-2005 09:33:38




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
I think 4x4's are too small for going up 12 feet high. Do not set your posts in concrete you can set them on concrete pads in the holes. Is 2 1/2 feet deep enough to be below your frost line ? You could check with a local phone or electric company and see if they have any old poles for the takeing ?



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Bill in NorthCentral PA

09-23-2005 09:26:46




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
I would not hesitate to use 4x4, although I would recommend pricing an alternate as 4x6. I would recommend 8' on center maximum. I have constructed a number of small jobs with 4x4, but the 4x6 gives a greater resistance to bending in the plane that you are concerned with. The sideways bending moment will be counteracted with the wall sheathing (steel, screwed in flats, not ribs), as well as stiffened by the 2x4 girts. I would recommend 24" purlin and girt spacing for future insulation should you decide to use some form of rigid innsulation board.

Good luck,

Bill

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Mattlt

09-23-2005 08:56:17




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
Something that's fairly common now is to "laminate" three 2x6 or 2x8 into a post. Use treated lumber below grade, normal lumber above ground, staggering the joints. Actually, putting a 2x8 in the middle, with a 2x6 on each side will provide room for nailing purlins on easily.

Check out lesterbuildings.com, I believe this is how they make their posts. You may have to poke around on the site, but I believe they show a photo of how the posts are made.

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Weirsdale George

09-23-2005 08:45:17




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
Where are you located? Unless it is someplace where there is very little wind load, I think 4x4's will shear off at the slab -- if you want to confirm this, just ask the many people who lost similar structures here in Florida last year. This is not a place to be penny wise, pound foolish.



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Mark - IN.

09-23-2005 08:43:12




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 Re: small pole bldg advice needed in reply to graygander, 09-23-2005 07:24:09  
Well, they're certainly not going to be as strong as 4x6's that they used to build my barn, but I was 10' spacing. You may want to check your local code to see what is required first, because I'm thinking is going to have to be inspected at some point, and would sure hate to see you go through the trouble then have some inspector say "No".

From my perspective, as a non-engineer, I'd say have been using 2x4's to build homes at 24" spacing for ions, and those homes stand for ions. I'd like to be able to say "yes" to your question, but an engineer I am not. I have 2x8 rat board around my base that formed the concrete. And I have 2x4's spaced every 2' up, starting from the ground, working towards the top. And of course by the time you mount your trusses across the top, will strengthen even more.

Can tell you this for sure. Is a fella a few miles down the road whom put one up as you described, using 4x4s at 8' spacing, but about 10' on the wall heighth, and came out just fine. His looks just fine, and works just fine. Make extra sure you're square. Use treated lumber into the ground. And if you think or figure need 8' wide doors, go at least 10', if need 10' wide, go at least 12' - cause it's a pain in the butt when the tractor axle squeaks through by a few inches (and the duals aint even on yet), then you gotta take some down, widen the door opening, then make a wider door from what you took down. Who was the idiot that overlooked that - ME, MYSELF, and I, both doors.

Don't forget to check with your code guy first. But I don't see a problem. Good luck.

Mark

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