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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

South Bend lathe 13 in.

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37 chief

12-23-2005 19:03:12




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I bought a old south bend lathe a while back, I got it all cleaned and painted, and fitted a new chuck. On my practice cuts it is out about.003 in 3 in. If I indicate across the chuck is shows .003 from front to back. This tells me the head assy is not sq. Anny sugestions on how to align the head with the carriage. Thanks Stan




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msb

12-25-2005 19:53:05




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  the site for you in reply to 37 chief, 12-23-2005 19:03:12  
www.practicalmachinist.com



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RusselAZ

12-25-2005 13:49:03




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 Re: South Bend lathe 13 in. in reply to 37 chief, 12-23-2005 19:03:12  
How big is the piece you made the cut on? Where you using the tailstock with a live center? If you were not using a tailstock it will taper. If you were using a dull cutting tool it will taper. Did it taper from the end of the piece toward the chuck or taper from the end of the cut to the end of the piece? If you were using the tailstock with a good center and got a tapered cut there should be two (maybe one) cross slide adjustment on the base of the tailstock.

And don't discount heat. Straight cuts need ample cooling on the tool bit and the work piece. .003 on three inches could be the result. Roughly speaking each 100 degree rise in temp gives .0005 diameter or length increase per inch of material.

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riverbend

12-25-2005 06:16:10




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 Re: South Bend lathe 13 in. in reply to 37 chief, 12-23-2005 19:03:12  
How long is your practice piece ? If it is short, are the ways worn near the headstock ?



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Butch(OH)

12-24-2005 12:57:39




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 Re: South Bend lathe 13 in. in reply to 37 chief, 12-23-2005 19:03:12  
My first post was so poorly written I decided to repost, sry paid no attention in riten class.

My post below should have stated clearly that the chuck itself AND the chuck mount have nothing to do with taper in the workpiece once you have made cuts on it, asumming the cuts were deep enough to emove material all the way around the bar. It of course does effect how concentric the bar is to the lathe centers before you start to machine the part. Your problem could be in head stock and bed alinement, flimsy mountings, flimsy work piece. or head stock bearings. (I assumed you would have checked them with an idicator and bar). Being as it has just been moved, leveling and footing problems would be my first guess. Messing with the head alignment is something you realy should not attempt, especialy untill all other possibilities are eliminated. The novice can realy screw up a lathe when he starts to "adjust" his head stock alignment. Things change in ways that you dont expect and get screwed up real fast. Also when talking "level" we are not talking "Stanley" level, but "Starett" level. A presision level is needed.

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Butch(OH)

12-24-2005 10:48:29




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 Re: South Bend lathe 13 in. in reply to 37 chief, 12-23-2005 19:03:12  
Crapo material, small diameter material and lots of stick out from the chuck will give taper. To check taper of a 3" cut held only by the chuck I'd want a piece of at least 1 1/2" Stress proof or other quality machinable steel and take the lightest cut that will give a good finish. Sorry fellows but the chuck is out of play here. You can have a crappiest chuck in the world mounted so crooked it gives an inch of runout but when you make enough skim cuts that you are turning the entire length of the work piece it's taper will be the same as with a perfect chuck mounted perfectly. All the chuck and mounting affects is the runout on the bar before you start to make cuts, (and of course how small it will be before it is round.) Check the machine for being level first as one of the others said. If its just sitting on your bench or one tha wobbles dont mess with the head untill it is soildly mounted and level all dirctions.

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37 chief

12-24-2005 15:57:38




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 Re: South Bend lathe 13 in. in reply to Butch(OH), 12-24-2005 10:48:29  
I will agree with you on the chuck. I will try and level with a rough level first, and use the level from work for final level. I can't justify buying a starrett level for a one time use. The lathe is a floor model and real heavy. This lathe was made when things were really built. Stan



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Davis in SC

12-24-2005 09:59:38




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 Re: South Bend lathe 13 in. in reply to 37 chief, 12-23-2005 19:03:12  
I assume you mean the diameter that you turned is tapered. Before you make any drastic changes, I would try to level the lathe bed. It can be a slow , tedious chore, but not really hard to do, once you figure it out. Sometimes, leveling must be done over a period of days , or even a few weeks. The bed may need to "Relax" & settle in as you make adjustments...



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Midwest redneck

12-24-2005 09:08:57




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 Re: South Bend lathe 13 in. in reply to 37 chief, 12-23-2005 19:03:12  
A loooong time ago I worked at place that had soft jaws on the lathe. The machinst (not me) would cut the soft jaws true to the carriage for perfect, or near perfect alignment.



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37 chief

12-24-2005 10:52:02




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 Re: South Bend lathe 13 in. in reply to Midwest redneck, 12-24-2005 09:08:57  
The chuck is right on. I can put a bar sticking out 3 inches, from the chuck, and make a cut then measurement it, the cut is tapered .003. Stan



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DaveInMI

12-24-2005 03:04:08




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 Re: South Bend lathe 13 in. in reply to 37 chief, 12-23-2005 19:03:12  
I'd recommend taking the chuck out of the picture and fasten a sacraficial plate to a face plate. Face to clean surface and take measurements from that surface.



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