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Rick, For your first time I would insist all lumber be straight, and certianly no twists. You will need a assistant, can be young helper. You will need 10 1x12=8 (these can be rough sawn)--16 pc carsiding cut 9 ft.--- 2 1 x 4=9 slam boards (side)---1 1 x 4=8 slam board (top) 1/4 # 1 1/2" very small diameter finish nails, --- 5# 1 1/4" deck screws w/ no 25 torx slot---1 1 x 6 = 9' center cover board. a battery powered screw gun works best, a couple no 25 torx screw gun bits (long 2" are best) skill saw, chalk line, chalk, 2 carpender pencils, 4ft level, tape measure your prefered hinges, lags if needed, bolts for hinges 2 1/4" (diameter needed for hinges) hammer, side cutters nail 8ft slamb boards to your exisiting jamb 1 1/2" verticaly 1 1/2" from out side edge of outside wall--both sides. Now the 9 ft top slam board across the top 1 1/2" also. Nail the finish nails in 5 places each side (these will loosten up later) Now take your first 1 x 12= 8 and saw to fit in horizonal from jamb to jamb on top edge of door. Lay a carpender pencil flat on top of your 1 x 12 and shove to very top of door (pencil will keep a 1/4" space from top. If off level cut top edge so bottom edge is level and nail with 2 finish nails on each end into the vsrtical slamb 1 x 4's. continue to bottom and rip bottom to desired clearance height. You must keep 1/4" from your jamb left and right side on these 1 x 12's, thus cut 1 x 12's one half ench short and split the cracks evenly. Your door can varry in width so do not get ahead of yourself. You must keep a carpender pencil (1/4") between each for swelling, and check for level often. Mark your exsisting jambs (both sides) where the crack of your 1 x 12's meet with a pencil so you do not screw carsiding in this crack. Now put your carsiding up and down. Usually we figure the total width and try to make it so you do not end up with a sliver on either side of the door. Carsiding varries in width depending on the mill they came from. You always want the edge of door to be a flat serface so at a min. saw the tounge off the first pc. --- car siding is always nailed first pc (w/ tonge removed) and screwed on the tounge side,(center on the 2-3 inch flat surface) do not overtighten the screws as it makes the next pc go on hard due to binding. Continue with carsiding, screwing very seldom on tounge side each time (you can screw it off later). When screwing three rows per 1x12 (3/4) from each horizonal edge and not near the very edge as it can split your 1 x 12. Rip last pc carsiding to fit. The top should always have a little clearance, and never make carsiding real tight with each adjorning pc. as it will swell. Level is good, but if your jambs are off level your first and last pc should be parell to jamb by cheating (all pc off level very slightly) Screw off the total door both flat surfaces on carsiding). Install your hinges using your 1 x 6 = 9 to make sure they are perfectly parell with each other so they do not bind. In the event your assistant can not go inside through another door you will have to lag the hinges to the door with 1 1/2 lags and replace with bolts later. Now saw the door down the center (you can use your 1 x 6 = 9 screwed to the door to guide your skill saw for a perfect cut. Now have assistant push the doors open, this will pull the head of the finish nails through the 1 x 12's (take side cutter and pull them out). Your door will fit perfect regardless how off level your jambs may have been, and it will not sag or warp. Your 1 x 6 = 9 is screwed for a overhanging lap in the center. Shut doors and screw the side slam boards to your side jamb mildly snug to the closed door . I know this may be difficult to understand and feel free to call me at 563-964-2670 anytime early or late. We would probably figure 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 hr. two men after tools and power are set up. We of course use gas fired finish nailer, adjustable scaffolding and a few other neat toys. Dave NE IA
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