How to install metal roofs on houses?

Thanks Roger

You can stick to roofs up to a 8/12 if you know how to stick to the roof, but if you put fir strips down you can work off the strips. Our crew does not know what falling down means, so they don't take any caution for the most part.

We always put 25% more screws in a roof. A extra one goes just behind the lap. This is where the wind starts to lift any panel. Also at the bottom (eve) we place twice as many screws as this is another spot prone to wind lift.

If we are working with a fast ground crew, we use a Pasload finish nailer (airless) without nails to punch holes in the heavy guage panels. Buy a good quality 1/4inch nut driver with magnet for your drill. Many must have the magnet driven down into the socket to drive properly. Do not buy the dozen for a dollar made in China nut runner sockets unless you NEVER get the urge to jump off a roof.

The choise of wood tites or screws is of utmost importance, self tapping for wood and self drilling for steel perloins. Some are far better to work with than others. Keep the metal particals out of the magnet in your nut runner / socket as the screws will wobble. Screws should not be overtight.
A item never mentioned, but I insist if I get the job is to put ice stops on to keep chunks of ice from dropping off.

Check with your metal company about over the asphalt shingle without stripping as some companies will not alow this as a chemical reaction breaks down the steel.

Another sugestion on house roofs is a double sided tape for the seams. The cost is very little.

Suprise also -- is alot of guarentees are for paint chipping, and fading, nothing more as they have no control of instalation.

We are dealing with a special steel panel that we installed on a 80 x 160 round rafter, 20 ft sidewalls where the lower lap of the panel had no return to the perloin. Why would anyone manufacture this product is beyond my mind set. We have hundreds of leaks, the company rep said we installed the panels correct and fasteners are in the correct location----- -BUT THEY ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE for leaking. There was sealant on all side and end panel laps. I hope we have some coperation from the manufacture, but seems not so good at this stage. Over $40,000.00 for product sheets, and no guarentee not to leak.

I should also mention there is no excuse to have a saw edge on the bottom (eve). Use your calculator and square root key for a perfect bottom edge.

Golly I keep going on and on! But another thing is IF you are going to use over the roof eve spout hangers or the 10 ft Ice stops YOU MUST INSTALL A 1 x 6 or a 2 x 6 on the bottom eve perloin / furring strip. NOT a 1 x4 or 2 x 4.

I'm a old man and have yet to see a good bottom or top closure strip, so you are on your own on this one, just make sure they have a adhesive strip to help hold them in place while installing the panels or ridge cap.

• Fabral roofing tech

I thought it was easier to install than 3-tab but the house I installed it on had the simplest possible roof---no valleys, no dormers, etc. The screws that the metal roofing company provided had square drive heads. They worked so well that I would seek them out if I was doing it again and any furnished screws weren't square drive.

The other thing I thought helped a lot was to devise a fitting that hooked over the ridge of the house and held a ladder in place for me to work from. Since the metal panels were only a foot wide, it was easy to do everything from a ladder beside the panel, and easy to move it to put down the next panel.

All the best, Stan

But It will block the mind control rays the govt is beaming down on us :)