Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Discussion Forum

Mildew on T1-11 siding

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
RegoR

11-21-2007 07:05:13




Report to Moderator

The earlier post on moisture and stucco got me to thinking that I should try asking about my moisture problem.

I have new (4 yrs) T1-11 fir siding on my fiberglass-insulated, wood-framed house and ONE south-facing bedroom wall has serious black mildew all over it except for a lesser amount directly over the studs. Outside, I can plainly see all the wall framing. It was double coated with Cabot oil stain to which I added a packet of mildewcide even though the stain can listed that in its formulation.

The house is in No. Cal in a somewhat high humidity area and is built on concrete stem walls resulting in a crawl space (no cellar) and has sufficient under floor and attic ventilation.

The mildew started only a year or so after the siding was installed and has continued to get worse. What was applied as redwood colored stain is now approaching ebony. That's a bit exaggerated, but you get the idea.

Any thoughts? And why only the one wall?

Thanks all.

Roger*

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
TyTX

11-22-2007 07:39:14




Report to Moderator
 Re: Mildew on T1-11 siding in reply to RegoR, 11-21-2007 07:05:13  
If it's the north wall you are in plenty of company. If not, look into what's causing it.

The EPA flexed it's muscles and outlawed zinc oxide from paint. That was the best mildew inhibitor ever made and there was no good reason to ban it other that lobbying from paint manufacturers who could sell a lot more paint without it.

For a long time you could buy zinc oxide at the paint store and mix it in yourself but I'm sure that's been stopped by now. You should still be able to get it if you shop around. Powdered zinc oxide is a white powder and adding it back to the paint will knock the mildew.

Think about it... zinc oxide is still in sun block, diaper rash ointment, cosmetics and is what washes down your roof from the flashing (hence the clean patches under the vent pipes) but it's "environmentally detrimental" in paint? Never was and never will be. There wasn't any credible backing or independent research supporting removal of zinc from paint.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
dr. sportster

11-21-2007 13:38:55




Report to Moderator
 Re: Mildew on T1-11 siding in reply to RegoR, 11-21-2007 07:05:13  
There are test kits in Home Depot.[ten bucks and send out to lab for forty bucks]There are many types and lots of web info.See the EPA site for most good honest info.Most sites try to scare you,HOWEVER,you must gid rid of it because it send out spores and spreads.I had a problem and used Outdoor Cloxox.Improper use of the bleach can also render the home uninhabitable so read up.It causes everything bad for your health,mold not bleach.Keep leaves away from beds around house its another source.I had three types.Moisture source must be removed also or it comes right back.Paint overs grow right through.Midew is mold.Try the oudoor clorox as directed on your siding with a brush but it will stain clothing and might take two scrubbings on siding such as yours .Good luck Tried to give you info but google it .It can kill you.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Stan in Oly, WA

11-21-2007 08:19:03




Report to Moderator
 Re: Mildew on T1-11 siding in reply to RegoR, 11-21-2007 07:05:13  
Hi Rego,

If the same T1-11 was installed the same way to the whole house, and the same paint was applied the same way everywhere, then there's something unique about the conditions of that bedroom wall. Bedrooms are a high water vapor area because the moisture generated by respiration (2/3 qt. per adult per 24 hrs if my memory serves) is usually not dealt with as it is in kitchens and bathrooms. If the moisture that is responsible for the mildew is originating in the bedroom, you might have a problem that is affecting the framing and insulation, too. Some investigation into the status of those elements would be prudent, followed by some attention to the moisture-proofness of the interior walls.

Good luck, Stan

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy