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Case hardening

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300 Randy

09-12-2001 10:55:58




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Is there an easy way to make pneumatic chisels
hard without getting them to brittle. I need to know how to do it right. Can't seem to find any info on the web.




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Fulton

09-13-2001 10:13:03




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 Re: case hardening in reply to 300 Randy, 09-12-2001 10:55:58  
the post by HTR is one of the most complete, easy to understand ways of explaining the hardening process and what all the mumbo jumbo means in the austempering business - just a word of advice, call the manufacturer of the product and find out what hardness the tool is currently at - you may find that it is the hardest it can be without becoming too brittle, and an attempt at case hardening will do more harm than good. Last thing you want is a tool that shatters when used. Really depends on the application - concrete work, steel work, etc. Good luck -

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Larry

09-12-2001 19:03:22




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 Re: case hardening in reply to 300 Randy, 09-12-2001 10:55:58  
Case hardening only works with low carbon steels such as a 1018 or 1020. The last 2 digits represent the amount of carbon in the steel. Case hardening requires adding carbon to the surface of these steels so that the surface becomes very hard for a wear surface, not a impact surface. If you want impact or cutting, you need different alloy steels that were formulated for that purpose.i.e. 4140 (general) or specific alloys use an "S" steel for impact or cutting tools. You cant just take any steel, heat it, quench it, and expect it to be hard and usable. The wrong steel, will be become brittle and break. This is a science if you want to do it right. The metalurgical post was good.

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HTR

09-12-2001 18:20:27




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 Re: case hardening in reply to 300 Randy, 09-12-2001 10:55:58  
This might help.



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rick-mi

09-12-2001 15:03:03




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 Re: case hardening in reply to 300 Randy, 09-12-2001 10:55:58  
generally, if your steel is of a hardenable quality, you can heat until the metal (near the cutting edge, not the whole thing) is turning a color somewhere between brown and blue, then quench in oil. the bluer you get, the harder the steel. also the more brittle the steel. you may consider annealing the tool first (so you know what you got as far as temper goes) by heating until bright red, then letting it cool on it's own to room temp. the hammer end of the tool needs to remain softer (less brittle) than the sharp end does so's it wont shatter. hope this helps

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Red Dave

09-12-2001 12:23:54




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 Re: case hardening in reply to 300 Randy, 09-12-2001 10:55:58  
I used to mess around with that years ago and it's mostly dependent on the particular formula that was used to make your steel. That is, what works on one type of steel won't always work on any other. With all the imported steel with questionable quality control around these days, there's not likely to be any one method that works all the time.
I would suggest experimenting with various heat temperatures and quench fluids, sometimes oil works best, sometimes water does. The old timers claimed a mixture of horsepi$$ and vinegar was best, (but I never tried that myself). I would try not quenching to cold all at once, such as quench from bright red to dull red and let it rest a few minutes then quench some more. Cooling too fast will tend to make it more brittle rather than hard. Too slow and it gets too soft. It takes some practice even if someone is right there showing how. That's the way the guy who showed me how said to do it anyway. Sorry I can't give you any exact temperatures to heat it to, He went by the color of the steel and I don't know how to explain that over the internet.

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