|
Jim.UT
08-29-2003 21:55:51
|
|
Re: Ford 800, what's it worth???? in reply to Mo in Wi, 08-29-2003 21:31:09
|
|
|
It could be worth $5,000 but that would be the upper end of it's value range in my opinion (easy for me to say; I'm not looking at it). Some points you need to clarify:
1. It's not a 1958 or it's not an 860. The 800 series was produced for model years 1955, 1956, and 1957. Starting in 1958 the 800 series was upgraded slightly to become the 801 series. If it's really a 1958, then it's probably an 861. Visually, the difference between an 860 and 861 is easy to see. An 860 will have a grille much like the Golden Jubilee whereas the 861 will have a grille consisting of big square grids (check the photo gallery for pics of examples of each).
2. Does the dual clutch perform as it should? If not, that can be an expensive fix. $500 for parts alone. With the clutch fully depressed, the tractor in gear and the pto engaged, the tractor should stand still and the pto should not spin. Let the clutch out halfway and the pto should start to spin, but the tractor should not move. Let the clutch out the rest of the way and the tractor should move.
3. Hydraulic pump. Is it the piston pump or the earlier vane pump? If it's a vane pump then it's a 1955 and you may be looking at a pump replacement someday (also expensive). The very first 800 series tractors received the vane pump, but that was changed in late '55 at serial number 66489 to the less troublesome piston pump. Visually, the vane pump has a square shaped body and the piston pump is round...it resembles a starter motor in appearance.
4. The proofmeter (tach) not working is not surprising. New replacements can be had for about $50 or less. However, don't put any stock in the hour reading of a bad proofmeter. Check other parts of the tractor for signs of lots of use. The clutch pedal is a good indicator. Is it worn smooth? Lots of hours. Does it still have the grid lines? Light use.
5. Front end loader. Does the tractor have power steering? If not, prepare for an upper body workout trying to steer it. Not impossible to do, just easier with power steering. Also, check for excessive wear in the front end components due to the extra strain put on by the loader (spindles, bearings, front axle pivot pin, etc).
6. Rear wheel weights. Are these the sectional pie weights? Nice to find a full set. I'm still looking. Make sure all parts are there including the mounting plate, special wheel studs, and all the sections.
7. A little oil drippage? Join the club. I wouldn't worry about that too much unless it seems excessive. Put a clean sheet of cardboard under it after shutting it off and see how dirty it gets while you check out other stuff.
8. Put a heavy weight on the 3 point hitch like a box blade or a bushhog, lift it in the air and shut off the tractor. Does it start to drift down? Weak hydraulics. Did it lift the weight smoothly without jerking or making funny noises?
9. Find the serial number and model number. Check the link for help in locating them. Check them against the seller's claims of age to see if it checks out. Find date codes on radiator, carb, rear axles and check them against the serial number for evidence of major component swappage. If everything seems to date to about the same time period, then it's probably an original unit. Email me if you want more specific directions on where to find date codes.I seem to see 860's sell around here for between $3000 and $4500. I paid about $2500 for my 850. It's not as nice as what you describe. The loader will add value as will the pie weights. A good complete set of pie weights will sell for between $500 - $800 all by themselves.
|
|
|
