OK lets see if we can try to figure out your problem. Your alternator back should look like this. While most call it a one wire most conversions use a two wire set up. The one wire is very expensive. Yours should have a jumper wire from the #2 post to the battery post. This tells the alternator when to shut off as not to over charge. If it is a true 1 wire it will not have this wire. It should have a 10 gauge wire from the battery post to the starter solenoid or battery. This is the wire that charges the battery. Start the motor. Use your volt meter to check volts at battery - and + post. Should be 13-14 volts with running. If only 11-12 volts it is not charging.
Now put red lead of volt meter on battery post on back of alternator and black lead to ground. Is the reading the same. If it is 13-14 here but only 11-12 at battery the 10 gauge wire has a break. If it still reads 11-12 volts at alternator it is not charging. Now take a jumper wire from battery + post and touch it to the #1 FIELD post on alternator. Did it start charging. If yes your regulator is not leaking enough to start alternator charging. If this is the case you will need to go to the 3 wire set up. If so post back and we will advise how to hook it up. This could be a very real possibility if you did not tell the man that rebuilt the alternator that you were not using the field wire. He would have put in a 3 wire regulator. Do not worry about the resistor. It has nothing to do with charging. It is there to protect the coil. Your system is 12 volt. If you did not change coil at conversion time it is still 6 volt. If you did change the coil you probably got a 8 volt coil. The resistor is there to knock volts down from 12 volts to what your coil needs to operate. If you supply a full 12 volts to coil it will over heat and burn up. Post back on a new thread your findings if you need some more help. OK guys...Jump in here and add any info I may have forgot.
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