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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Pettibone mullikin brakes

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sam

05-22-2004 20:20:22




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I want to thank the people who responded to my last post, sorry I did not reply things have been hectic, but now everything is back to normal. Ok, I have a pettibone mullikin backhoe loader model lda. It has a 3-53 detroit diesel. The brakes are air over hydrolic and do not work. The first thing I was told to do was to see if the air pump works, it does the gauge reads right around 80, even when I throttle it up. I do not know if that is enough pressure or not. It does have 2 small leaks in the fittings that go to the valves under the pedals. It has been sitting but not to a point where every thing totally shot. Both pedals are froze, I took them off going to free them up, under them are 2 valves, with lines that go to the master cylinder and booster which is new. Previouse owner tried to fix wasnt the problem. The other lines go the air pump, air tank and some type of small mechanism on top of the motor, I do not know what it is, it is small about the size of a empty roll of toilet paper and same shape, it has a plunger on one end with a rubber cap. Its my first machine so this is all kind of new to me. Any further help would be greatly appreciated . Thanks everyone, have a good day.

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Paul Janke

05-23-2004 10:24:47




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 Re: Pettibone mullikin brakes in reply to sam , 05-22-2004 20:20:22  
That small cylindrical thing you mentioned on top of the engine sounds like you are describing the governor. It is what determines when the compressor does and does not pump air. The rubber can be pulled off and the pressure can then be adjusted. Maximum pressure should not exceed 120 PSI.



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jdemaris

05-23-2004 07:23:26




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 Re: Pettibone mullikin brakes in reply to sam , 05-22-2004 20:20:22  
I've got the same machine, i.e. Pettibone Multihoe LDA. The air over hydraulic brakes is an optional setup. Standard was non-power brakes, with a separate brake pedal and master cylinder for each side - so you could brake each rear wheel independantly. I think I'd rather have the standard setup, but I don't. With the optional setup, there are still two brakes pedals, but either one brakes both wheels together, not separatetly. Only difference between the pedals is . . . one will engage brakes and do nothing else, whereas the other will engage brakes and disconnect the transmission at the same time. Reason for that is so, when your foot is on the brake, and the transmission is still in gear, you can rev the engine up (to make the loader go faster)and the machine won't try to move. It simply saves you the trouble of having to put the machine in neutral. So, the extra line from the brake valve goes to a transmission hydraulic disconnect valve near the back of the engine. If your gauges are working, you should see the transmssion pressure gauge go to zero when you stomp on one of the brake pedals, and not change at all when you stomp on the other. 80 psi is enough to run the brakes, but I don't remember exactly what pressure mine runs. Next time I use it I'll take a look at the gauge. I suspect your problem is in the air-brake valve. I think it's prone to getting moisture in in. Mine tends to get frozen solid in the winter, but works fine in the summer - so there has to be moisture in it. And, I drain my air tank every time I shut the machine down. The optional air over hydraulics came as a kit, part # 3227-S. It has a lot of parts. Basically, there is an engine driven air compressor that is liquid cooled and uses engine oil for lube. It hooks to an air tank/reversoir, and then hooks to the brake-air-valve, then to the air servo assisted hydraulic master cylinder,and the hydraulic lines to the brake wheel cylinders.

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