Summer starting question

My problem is how to get it started. It doesn't seem to be getting the fuel to the engine until after you crank it for at least 10 sec or so it starts smoking ad then another 10 sec later it starts.

Its warm out here right now (yes it does get warm up in Canada) around 20 deg. C so it should be starting at the turn of the key.

Did anyone have any advise on how to get it fixed??

Would it be the fuel stop? Is there any way I can check if it is the fuel stop? I have injector cleaner in the fuel, doesn't seem to make much of a difference.

I do have an electric fuel pump on it instead of the manual orignal one- it was replaced when it was rebuilt, could this have anything to do with it?

Once it starts, it starts all of a sudden, no "half firing" and runs with smooth with a thin grey - white smoke that is hardly noticeable once it warms up.

Sorry to have so much to say, I just want to make sure all of the specs are there...

Thanks to all who respond,

Paul (ONT)

See what happens tomorrow when you try to start it. May be surprised.

For some reason after engines sit, especially diesel, they are hard to start. I'm going to say rings not seating and compression low which is what you are talking about. That smoke that comes out before it kicks off is diesel trying to explode but can't cause the cylinder temp is too low.

After you work them for awhile all the crud clears up and she runs fine.

Have 6 tractors now and all but 1 are diesel. I have experienced this problem several times. Can almost tell how long it has been sitting by how hard it is to start.

Mark

I'd disconnect the fuel line at the injector pump (catch whatever comes out) and turn the key to the "start" position and see if I had immediate strong fuel flow. The fuel pump must be wired so that it operates with the key in both the "start" and "run" positions.

A leak could cause air to accumulate in the filter too.

The reason I suspect a fuel pump problem or an air leak is that the 10 seconds seems about the time it might take to get some fuel flow from the tank to the pump with the lines full of air.

It's possible the injector pump is worn too but given that the engine runs fine once started I'd think that's not very likley.

Whatever you do, don't resort to anything goofy like ether. That engine should start quickly even in winter and like you said, during warm weather it should fire off with a turn of the key.

Yes, the fuel pump does pump when the key is turned to ON and also at START. The fuel is flowing out in a hurry, I'm guessing 1-2 psi, but that could be way off b/c I can't measure it. Anyway, the fuel is there, but not at once, it takes a couple seconds to reach the injector pump. BTW, the fuel pump before the filters on the engine, not sure where the original one was set up.

Anyway, another long bunch of questions thanks for replying, i hope we can resolve it.

Thanks again, Paul

I think you might have found the problem. Absent a service manual, my best understanding is that fuel should be at the injector pump at all times. The bubble above the fuel level in the filter is not the problem but the electric fuel pump might be. That couple of seconds it takes fuel to reach the injector pump tells me that air is being pumped into the injector pump during that time. The service manual would also have a spec for the proper fuel pressure. I have no idea what that might be but if you have an automotive type electric pump they are usually set at 4-7 psi.

Another thought... is the fuel return line in place? Low side won't bleed without it.

I'm not a big fan of replacing mechanical pumps with electric ones on diesel engines. If it were me, I'd replace the OEM mechanical pump and using the service manual make sure all the lines were in place and then bleed both sides per the manual and then at least I'd have a know good starting point to work from should the problem continue.

The easiest way to tell if there is a air leak is to disconnect the return line and install a piece of clear tubing, start the engine as see if the clear return line has any bubbles in the fuel flow.

With a air bubble in the top of the fliter strainer could also mean the feed line has a partial plug up.

T_Bone

Could just be that it all needs tightening up, or, as with one of our lorries it was the injector pump. It needed rebuilding.

Try tightening first,(but dont over tighten it) if it doesnt work bleed it, see if it starts up then, as someone else said - if it does your just getting air in the system.